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Oracle 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: fa: Arent Wortel, Mark Deffenbaugh 7/13/08 ffa: Arent Wortel, Mark Deffenbaugh 7/15/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Lonesome Winner

Description 

Moderate face/crack climbing leads to rest below first roof. Launch into the roof, clip a bolt, and long reaches over the roof will get you to a stance by a blue metolius/alien placement on the left face. From here clip one last bolt, launch into a spicy layback sequence, then enjoy sustained and steep climbing to the anchor.

Protection 

Gear to 3" and bolts


Photos of Oracle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Oracle
BETA PHOTO: Oracle
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the business on the oracle, Healyj o...
Looking up at the business on the oracle, Healyj o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marcus Bingham following a pre-comfort bolt lead o...
Marcus Bingham following a pre-comfort bolt lead o...

Comments on Oracle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Healyje
From: PDX
Sep 3, 2010

This is as serious as a trad lead gets - do not in any way underestimate this route. I personally don't use the 6" cam as it gets in my way, but even with it you don't wan't to take this route lightly (I consider it 'R', Arent believes it to be 'PG-13' with the big cam). The description should read:

"The best line at the crag and is the obvious and bold gem up the broken corner arête and up through the ‘butterfly’ roof to thin moves above which gain you the stellar right-facing dihedral crack."

[ 2015.2.9 Note: Led this six times this past year, three times with Arent's #6 cam and three with my normal skipping of it for some pro below - both pretty much suck equally if for different reasons. Still one of my favorite leads ever regardless. ]

[ 2015.9.22 Note: Arent came out and bolted the roof which we were both in agreement on as the pro was ridiculous no matter how you did it. Unfortunately he also comfort-bolted the crux which, while certainly his prerogative as FA, has dumbed what was one of the best and boldest trad leads around and I include Beacon in that. ]
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 15, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great route, the bolts are nice... Super fun upper half! Getting there through the roof is awkward tho
By bryans
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

On the FFA Arent Wortel pulled the roof moves on a 6 inch Camelot. He's 6 foot 4 and I'm 6 feet and that cam was very hard to remove even at my height. Be thankful he added a bolt there and another one higher to make this route reasonably safe for anyone of any height to try and onsight. Best line at the crag?
By Healyje
From: PDX
Jun 28, 2016

Absolutely the best line at the crag. Also in pursuit of the FA, I did the roof with smaller pro immediately below the roof rather than the C6 in it. But at Arent's suggestion I did later buy one and used it for three later leads to evaluate the bolt idea and the C6 was no problem at all to place at my 5'11" height (nor was placing the solid pro in the corner crack next to the second bolt). Regardless, I was in total agreement with bolting the first roof due to foot entanglement issues no matter how you protected it. That roof bolt, however, doesn't in any way change the experience or level of commitment the route required.

The second bolt, on the other hand, completely changes the character of the route turning it into a 'modern', low-commitment affair and, while certainly his prerogative, I still very much urge and encourage Arent to reconsider and remove that second retrobolt.

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