|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 85'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch 1973|
|Submitted By:||Dave Holliday on Nov 6, 2006|
|Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Opus 73||Add Comment|
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By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Overall a very fun route! A word of warning though, the first 60' or so can be a little scary. A lot of loose flakes and poorly bonded sandstone had me 15' above an okay yellow Alien while climbing through the loose and poop covered rotten band below the start of the good rock. (I soon after sunk a #5 in the wide crack and all was good in the world again....)
Having said that, by the time I reached the top of the route, the junky lower half was completely forgotten. The last 15' is awesome! Steep, quality rock with some great moves over bomber gear. If only the whole climb was like that....
Exit left at the top of the difficulties to the sport anchor to save yourself from trying to top out.