Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Options in case of red rock rain
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Jan 11, 2017
THANK YOU, Thomas!!!! Gun Club is too sharp for my hands. Going to check this out for sure! Leslie McG
Joined Jun 12, 2012
405 points
Jan 11, 2017
Remember you cross the Kyle Canyon drainage. If there is a big dump up around Charleston that's where the water ends up. No catchment basin till you get down by the power lines.

There have been some big time flash floods through that area but normally they occur during the monsoon season.

Test Site is less sharp than the Gun Club. Got some pocket pulling there. I lump the Gun Club and Lone Mountain into the crossley sharp choss-pile category.

A couple other developed sport crags are in the same area; Area 51 (a cave) and Dreamland. I don't have good beta for them. Dreamland is a cave (faces west) and supposed to be better quality (less sharp) than the Test site with many vertical dike systems. What I read is there is not a lot of development...mostly in the 12 range, but a lot potential for 9's, 10's. 11's. Though you approach through a posted zone, these areas are not in the official La Madre Wilderness.

I tried a couple times to follow the directions and find Area 51 and Dreamland. Got lost, ran out of daylight. Supposed to be a 15 minute walk...ha ha. Came to the conclusion the writer may have been smoking a bit. First time in to the Test Site I'd allow for an hour approach time.

Lost interest. My opinion was the window for these areas is very small...either too cold or too hot, but now with several weeks of wet weather the window is expanded.

Info is from 1995
Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Joined Feb 5, 2006
660 points
Jan 11, 2017
BigB wrote:
Heard a rumor that more key holds were broken on "big bad wolf "over the weekend by a group climbing too soon after the rain


Any more info on this?
Carla Rosa
Joined Mar 10, 2016
114 points
Jan 11, 2017
Carla Rosa wrote:
Any more info on this?


Climbed it yesterday and didn't notice anything, still feels 5.8ish.
Doug Foust
From Henderson, Nevada
Joined Sep 14, 2008
45 points
4 days ago
So folks, after all this rain, when's the next time shady and sunny routes should be good to go? I'm guessing Monday, but would like to hear local opinions. Daniel Chambo
From Carrboro, North Carolina
Joined Nov 21, 2013
60 points
2 days ago
Posted on Cilogear's Facebook page:

Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
75 points
2 days ago
There is also keyhole canyon (meh) and you could go to arrowhead canyon (still meh). Michael Dom
From Seattle
Joined Dec 13, 2015
455 points
2 days ago
Michael, just curious ...^ what didn't you like about keyhole? BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
2 days ago
Marc

That CiloGear post was in response to this:

instagram.com/p/BPRIKZ3jVCb/?t...

Courtney Sanders and Daniel Woods trying to justify why they climb west sandstone in RR.... pretty pathetic that they got called out and are still trying to defend it.
khalifornia
From Colorado
Joined Nov 18, 2015
0 points
2 days ago
khalifornia wrote:
Marc That CiloGear post was in response to this: instagram.com/p/BPRIKZ3jVCb/?t... Courtney Sanders and Daniel Woods trying to justify why they climb west sandstone in RR.... pretty pathetic that they got called out and are still trying to defend it.

OMFG.
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
75 points
2 days ago
Keyhole Canyon:

I only ended up doing about 5 routes there so there could be hidden gems but everything felt forced. The climbs went, but they weren't much fun. The rock quality was pretty poor and the climbs are rather heads up for something that didn't seem really worth the risk. But the annoying part is that you have to do these walk offs for anything on the 80ft wall and below. From what I understand it has to do with protecting access due to all of the rock art. If you are going to go to keyhole I would recommend bringing two ropes and leaving a fixed rap line on the anchors of the Demonstrator. You will end up skipping the whole gulley scramble descent and if you have a 60meter you can get down to the ground. When I tried to rap off of Demonstrator and pull the rope it ended up getting stuck due to the position of the anchors ( not a good spot for anchors) so you may want to hike down when you are done for the day.

The approach is pretty mellow though.
Michael Dom
From Seattle
Joined Dec 13, 2015
455 points
2 days ago
khalifornia wrote:
Marc That CiloGear post was in response to this: instagram.com/p/BPRIKZ3jVCb/?t... Courtney Sanders and Daniel Woods trying to justify why they climb west sandstone in RR.... pretty pathetic that they got called out and are still trying to defend it.

All of the comments now deleted and closed...took the toys and left the sandbox. I'm sure the good ones got screen *shotted ;)



*it's a word, right?
Momoface
Joined Apr 13, 2008
0 points
2 days ago
DWoods responses are bs BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
2 days ago
I just lost all respect for that kid ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
2 days ago
Momoface wrote:
All of the comments now deleted and closed...took the toys and left the sandbox.

The only thing lamer and more pathetic than attempting to justify the unjustifiable is not being an adult and owning what you wrote....and not being mature enough to admit when you were wrong.

I respect their climbing ability, but my respect for them as responsible adults has plummeted.
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
75 points
2 days ago
BigB wrote:
DWoods responses are bs


Wait for it....its a set up transgression to later be able to apologize and see the light...to then become the person on the highest of ground on the subject.

Within a year, the Wood's will be the poster family for not climbing on wet Red Rock. Perhaps a Black Diamond PSA poster with the Wood's noting how bad it is to be selfish and damage a one of a kind resource forever.

Remember when Joe Kinder cut down the tree and became the spokesman for low impact climbing? Or when Shenanigans or whatever her name is cheated at a comp and then wrote a redemption article on it?

The Wood's have seen an opening for a new storyline to boost followers. They will arise as the wise sages with lessons learned from experience.

#hastags and likes
Sandy Crimp
Joined Jan 3, 2013
15 points
2 days ago
Sandy Crimp wrote:
Wait for it....its a set up transgression to later be able to apologize and see the light...to then become the person on the highest of ground on the subject. Within a year, the Wood's will be the poster family for not climbing on wet Red Rock. Remember when Joe Kinder cut down the tree and became the spokesman for low impact climbing? Or when Shenanigans or whatever her name is cheated at a comp and then wrote a redemption article on it? The Wood's have seen an opening for a new storyline to boost followers. They will arise as the wise sages with lessons learned from experience.

Wow, that's pretty cynical, but I don't think I disagree.
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
75 points
2 days ago
St George - utah hills was good. Beautiful scenery, not many people, but cold. Luke Werner
Joined Mar 6, 2016
0 points
2 days ago
Two of my friends were out there today. One at the Keystone Thrust trail (Willow Springs) this morning and a bouldering couple at Kraft Crags. Report is it was dry enough to climb in those areas. Water was seen in water collection pools on the ridge above Red Springs Picnic Area Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Joined Feb 5, 2006
660 points
1 day ago
Today was not dry enough to climb, though plenty of people were climbing. Again, a rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, no climbing on the sandstone, even if it feels dry to the touch. It's incredibly porous and has been absorbing the recent rain, it needs more than a day and a half of sun to dry out. We drove our 6 hours, hiked up to our climb, saw the ground, and hiked back down and had a nice day trail running and reviewing self rescue. We also saw many parties go on up and climb despite us letting them know everything was still soggy.

The climb looked tempting since it was in the sun and we could justify to ourselves that it's not as wet as the ground. But in the end we knew it really wasn't ready for climbing yet. I'm sure many of the others we saw there, including a guide, knew the same, but decided their desire to climb that day was more important.

Folks, please respect this awesome area. It sucks to get turned around, but that's part of climbing.
vwall
Joined May 14, 2012
0 points
1 day ago
^^^^^^^^^ thanks for doing the right thing ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Joined Jan 27, 2013
73 points
13 hours ago
The Finish boulderers staying at my place were out at Kraft Crags today. They said nothing about holds breaking. I'd agree the canyons are still too wet.

According to MWS and Weatherunderground more rain starting around midnight Wednesday. Snow at higher elevations.
Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Joined Feb 5, 2006
660 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2