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Optimus Prime 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Clay Frisbie 2012
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: Raiden on Oct 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The crux start of Optimus Prime on a sunny May mor...

Description 

A very low first bolt marks the delicate crux to this route which ends with easier climbing and a shared anchor with Sentinel Prime.

Location 

Between Sentinel Prime and Acree Prime

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor


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By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
May 7, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Sentinel Prime (SP) and Optimus Prime (OP) share anchors and the last bolt (which is way off line for SP). Start of OP was pretty tough and a bit cryptic for 10b (a stick clip will come in handy).At least one hold has broken off in the crux, and there is a visible dark orange scar where it was. Very top of both routes (sort of shared) is harder than it looks from the ground. A lead fall from the left side of that steep 2nd sub-crux could be problematic.

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