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(5) Anglin's Buttress
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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Collins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Alan Collins on Dec 9, 2016

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Alan on the FA of Optigrab

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  • Description 

    Optigrab starts out on choss like most routes on this wall, but after the 5.6 climbing (first 3 bolts) the rock become remarkably solid. Cleaning this route was effortless, almost nothing came off. While the rock quality is 4/4 stars, the route itself doesn't stand out with all the classics at Smith Rocks. I would compare it in difficulty and quality to That 10d (a sandbagged 12a at smith).

    Once the hard climbing begins, it doesn't really let up until you get the last bolt clipped. Continuous delicate face moves on crimps and side pulls dominate this climb. While this climb in entirely safe, it forces you to climb hard above protection making it feel like most routes at Smith Rocks.

    The Second pitch will link up into Anglin and Danglin's 3rd pitch. Ive been on it once or twice and believe it will be 12+, but it is hard to say. Regardless, it will make for a 5 pitch Smith Rock classic multi pitch. Two pitches of 5.12, and a pitch of 5.10+, 5.11-, and 5.6.

    The second pitch stars up a balance and powerful broken arete system and leads to some hard face climbing before the anchors of Pitch 2. This climb will be a must do for adventurous 5.12 climbers a Smith.


    Start left go the giant pile of rocks on 5.6 climbing and climb the left bolt line.



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    Rock Climbing Photo: Alan starts up Optigrab
    Alan starts up Optigrab

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