REI Community
(5) Anglin's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anglin n' Danglin' S 
Jim Climbing S 
Optigrab S 

Optigrab 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Collins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Alan Collins on Dec 9, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Alan on the FA of Optigrab

  • 02/28/2017 to 08/31/2017: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Optigrab starts out on choss like most routes on this wall, but after the 5.6 climbing (first 3 bolts) the rock become remarkably solid. Cleaning this route was effortless, almost nothing came off. While the rock quality is 4/4 stars, the route itself doesn't stand out with all the classics at Smith Rocks. I would compare it in difficulty and quality to That 10d (a sandbagged 12a at smith).

    Once the hard climbing begins, it doesn't really let up until you get the last bolt clipped. Continuous delicate face moves on crimps and side pulls dominate this climb. While this climb in entirely safe, it forces you to climb hard above protection making it feel like most routes at Smith Rocks.

    (SECOND PITCH COMING SOON!!!)
    The Second pitch will link up into Anglin and Danglin's 3rd pitch. Ive been on it once or twice and believe it will be 12+, but it is hard to say. Regardless, it will make for a 5 pitch Smith Rock classic multi pitch. Two pitches of 5.12, and a pitch of 5.10+, 5.11-, and 5.6.

    The second pitch stars up a balance and powerful broken arete system and leads to some hard face climbing before the anchors of Pitch 2. This climb will be a must do for adventurous 5.12 climbers a Smith.

    Location 

    Start left go the giant pile of rocks on 5.6 climbing and climb the left bolt line.

    Protection 

    Quickdraw


    Photos of Optigrab Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Alan starts up Optigrab
    Alan starts up Optigrab

    Comments on Optigrab Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About