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Onyx Summit Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big BM T 
Clip Art S 
Cliptomania S 
Freak on a Leash S 
Lost on the Horizon T 
Nothing Could be Finer than to be in a Vagina in the Morning S 
Opiate S 
Palm Pilot S 

Opiate 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Miller, May 2001
Season: All year (depending upon snowfall)
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006

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Description 

Starting from the left side of a small ledge 10' off the ground and just left of the start of Cliptomania climb straight up the center of the main pillar.

Thin, crimpy and somewhat painful moves over a bulge provide the first crux, which once past lead to easy ground in the middle of the face and a rest before the second and final crux. Clip a directional bolt and then launch up the amazing white headwall (5.11a) using the plentiful edges to decipher a somewhat tricky sequence enroute to the sport anchors atop the route.

The lower moves on this are more difficult than enjoyable and the lack of continuous climbing detracts from the overall experience, but the upper moves are superb and well worth enduring the lower portion of the route.

Location 

Located up the middle of the main pillar and between Palm Pilot and Cliptomania

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off


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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Mammoth Lakes
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I liked the sharp crimps at the start, and I loved the finishing moves up the wall of the pyramid. The moves up to the 3rd bolt on the headwall felt hard for 11a, more like 11b.

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