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Routes in Main Wall
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Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casual Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Chameleon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crescent Loon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cross, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Garden of Earthly Delights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hidden Secrets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horse Chaser T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lowe/Kudo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Panda Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Reckoner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sailing Shoes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smokin’ Toasters T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Toetally aka Shoe Recall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Trout-Jamieson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Y Not Continue? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Nathan Martian |
| Page Views: | 1,410 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Aug 4, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Just like in the days of old, Nathan put this one up in good style. If you are not efficient at placing Ophir gear, you had better leave this one off the list for awhile.
Sixty feet of slab, with the occasional good placement, lead you to a fifty foot headwall with two bolts in it. If you are efficient at placing gear, the thin crack will take your ideas in between them, if not, run it out on excellent and solid 5.9+ to the safety of the next bolt. A stopper move lurks at the top before it eases off, then more air to the anchors. This has great movement, the best climbing of the three "easy sport" climbs in this area. It is not for the faint of heart!
Sixty feet of slab, with the occasional good placement, lead you to a fifty foot headwall with two bolts in it. If you are efficient at placing gear, the thin crack will take your ideas in between them, if not, run it out on excellent and solid 5.9+ to the safety of the next bolt. A stopper move lurks at the top before it eases off, then more air to the anchors. This has great movement, the best climbing of the three "easy sport" climbs in this area. It is not for the faint of heart!
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