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Opening Night 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Luke Bertelsen
New Route: Yes
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Jan 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo of the route.

Description 

A great addition to the mountain, this well-protected route features a Mount Lemmon rarity: large holds. Ascend less-than-vertical face using a leaning crack system to reach a roof. Pull the roof following a non-intuitive yet obvious sequence to reach an overhanging corner system. Climb a fantastic sequence to obtain the chains.

Location 

This route is the leftmost of three routes on the southeast, less overhung side of The Gallery. It starts from a comfortable ledge with a belay bolt. The route can be reached by scrambling up two fixed ropes or by rappel.

Protection 

9 bolts to anchors with lower offs.


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By Luke Bertelsen
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 27, 2016

I did my best to do a thorough job cleaning the loose rock on this climb, but it might still be cleaning up a bit. Belayer beware as there isn't really anywhere to move from the belay perch if debris falls. I also intend to move one bolt still as the clip right where the going gets steep is a little reachy?.
Lastly, there is a right variation of this climb (shares bolts 1 and 2) that used to have red tag. Not sure if it's still there, but it is unclimbed and still needs some work. Enjoy!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 6, 2016

Did this today, good job on the bolting, angle allowed me to work out the crux puzzle. Only a little fuzzy but worth doing. Great to climb something I have never been. Thanks Luke and Tiff.

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