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Art of Dreaming, The S 
Bedtime Story S 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 
Bobsled, The S 
Caffeine Buzz S 
Chore Boy T,S 
Daily Grind, The S 
Golden Slumber T,S 
Lucky Strikes S 
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Opener S 
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Tooth Fairy S 
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War On Freedom S 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Neil Backstrom & Mark Rolofson on Nov. 9, 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall & Winter
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Sep 28, 2010

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  • Description 

    This is a 2 bolt, 5.10, direct start to "Tooth Fairy" that is more consistent with the difficulty (5.9 to 5.10) past the climb's bouldery 5.11c start. A stick clip may be useful for the 1st bolt. Climb up near vertical rock to the 1st bolt, and move right & up to 2nd bolt. Pull onto a low-angle slab, & join "Tooth Fairy" at its 3rd bolt.


    Start 10 feet right of the start of "Tooth Fairy" & left of the large tree that is just left of the start of "Mr. Sandman".


    8 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on Opener Add Comment
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    By JoeS
    Sep 25, 2016

    Maybe I missed something, but I thought this was stiff for 5.10.

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