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RGC - Open Spaces Area
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The RGC ( Roger Gagne Classic) T 
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Smitty's Sport Route S 

Open Spaces 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague- TR, finally lead by Michael Larson and Conor Cliffe 7/4/2015
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This is another project that I have TRed a bunch of times, but embarrassingly have never lead successfully. I tried a couple times but chickened out at the crux and grabbed the draw, which is silly because it is very well protected. Edit - finally lead by Michael Larson and Conor Cliffe 7/4/2015

If you head down left from the Smoky Dike, there are some big blocks leaning against the wall on your right. Climb up the steep hand/finger crack in the blocks. From the top carefully lean out and clip a bolt and head up the steep white face, crimping your way to a very thin, technical crimp crux and a pop to a good hold ( a little reachy, could be very hard if shorter than ~5.8). Continue up on juggy flakes (optional cam) until you can clip a bolt and do a committing step out right to a slabby ramp. Smear your way up the ramp to a final headwall to a mantle onto a sloping ledge and the anchors.

This is an excellent climb. I really wanted to get the lead, but the route has been sitting there too long for me to hold dibs. If you want to get on it, have fun.

Location 

down left of the Smoky Dike, at the start of the tall steep wall

Protection 

bolts, gear for the crack start up the blocks or you can walk around and stick clip the first bolt from the top of the blocks. You can use an optional cam if you don't like the easy runout above the crux. A few longer draws or slings will alleviate rope drag since the route snakes around. 60m rope needed


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 10, 2012

There is actually a bottle of Russian Champagne hidden out at Owls that I am not supposed to drink until I lead this route.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Sep 10, 2012

So what I'm hearing is "There's a bottle of Russian Champagne hidden out at Owls that Jared I will drink after we lead this route"
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 11, 2012

Ha! I bet you would have a hard time finding it. If I was out there though, I would pop it. A little competition might get me out there faster. I have a couple things I want to finish at Greens this year and then I hope to be able to take my attention back to Owls for a while. The days are already getting shorter though. Hopefully we will have a long warm dry rock season this Fall.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 20, 2013

A big dead pine has fallen against the bottom of this route. It will take some engineering to get it off or a couple winters to knock it down.
By CCliffe
Jul 28, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Michael Larson and I free'd this on the 4th of July. A terrific route with a unique start. Great eye!!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 28, 2015

Cool! I guess the tree has fallen out of the way. The Champagne is tucked into an alcove behind a rock under a boulder ;) No guarantees on what it will taste like at this point.