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Open Project 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]
Page Views: 314
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Nov 8, 2012

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The route.


I bolted the TR anchors for this and ran out of time to finish it. Make some tricky moves off the deck to gain a slabby, right-facing corner that leads to a roof. Pull through the improbable roof and the climbing eases above.


See the beta photo on the main page.


2 bolt TR anchor. The route will probably need at least one bolt at the roof.

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By Alex Garhart
Sep 11, 2013

This route can go all on gear with some exciting but easy run-outs. The opening moves begin left of the right-facing corner at an undercut with jugs, just below a thin splitter. You can place a good puple C3 to protect the opening 5.10 moves, and then it's runout 5.9 up to the roof where you can plug in a variety of gear, the safest being purple and green C3s on the right side, below the roof crux. The roof feels V3ish and the climbing eases above with intermittent gear in horizontals (1.5-2.5").

I got close to sending this, but I'm leaving until March. Somebody go crush this thing!

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