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Open Heart 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1750', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: 2007
Page Views: 1,811
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Start 200' left/east of the giant black water streak, on the far left side of the buttress.

Route Description: 

Pitch 1: (200') Climb dirty cracks and a short slab.
Pitch 2: (200') Climb a flakey slab and a right-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3: (200') Climb up a slab, ledge, face & intermittent cracks.
Pitch 4: (200') Climb a clean slab.
Pitch 5: (200') Climb up a dirty face & low-angle dirty slabs.
Pitch 6: (100') Climb dirty slabs.
Pitch 7: (150') Climb tree-filled cracks.
Pitch 8: (150') Climb a clean face.
Pitch 9: (150') Climb loose rock.
Pitch 10: (200') Climb more loose rock.


I recommend 8 SLCDs (0.4"-3.5"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24").


Scramble southwest into the gully.


Bolted in 2007.
Sections of the first 2 pitches may have been climbed by the Alpenbock Club in the 1960s, but there is no record of it.


This may be Grade V by next year.

Comments on Open Heart Add Comment
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By bsmoot
Jan 28, 2008

"This may be Grade V by next year."

Sorry to break it to you, but a grade IV or a V doesn't exist in the Super Slab area.
By LCC Climber
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Brian calls a 300 foot climb (Ventral Fin) Grade IV.
Tony calls a 1,700 foot climb (Heart of Darkness) Grade III.

I'm sure some folks will be able to fire to the top of this in a few hours. But I think it will take most parties all day to make it to the ridge, which is the top of this route.

Its too bad folks were/are so mean to each other on here. If you have a problem with Tony you should talk to him in person.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 27, 2010

Tony? Is that you?
By bsmoot
Sep 27, 2010

"Sorry to break it to you, but a grade IV or a V doesn't exist in the Super Slab area."

Tony, I don't see how this is a "mean" statement, it's simply my opinion about a route grade. If you think folks are too mean on MP then stay away.

You saw me "in person" at the base of Super Slab on Saturday, why didn't you want to talk about it then? Was it because you were with clients?

P.S. Nice lie, I never said The Ventral Fin was 300'
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 27, 2010

Ventral Fin: 5.10 A2-3.
Heart of Darkness: 5.8+.

Comparing apple and oranges while speaking of y000urself in the third person: priceless.

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