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Open Casket 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 98'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1985
Page Views: 5,265
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: photo looking STRAIT up in the air at the start of...


When you tire of the routine corners and faces that typefy T-Wall stone, it's time to poke around a bit and pry open the Casket. High Indiana Jones-value on this one.

Rounding the corner left of the falls, a squint into the darkness reveals a gaping, ever-widening chasm, choked with blocks reminiscent of towers on the Colorado Plateau. Surely, you think, this cannot be 5.9. And yet, with unlikely reaches to secret jugs, with wild stemming across the chasm, with locker hand jams under the huge chockstones, the Casket gives it up.


The Casket lies left of the waterfall, just around the corner from Psycho Path, etc. When you turn the corner to confront a dark and gaping maw, you're there.

Belay on the big ledge, or lower off on new rings.

Silver Bullets 

Surprisingly, you'll need nothing larger than a 3 camalot, although 2 of these will be required to keep most folks happy on their first ride. Long runners like you mean it. In the summer, consider a spider wand, unless the traffic increases dramatically on what is basically a cult classic.

Photos of Open Casket Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The full Casket
The full Casket
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a wild climb
Such a wild climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Open Casket, T-Wall, TN.
Open Casket, T-Wall, TN.

Comments on Open Casket Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Not for the novitiate nine leader...

A bit chossy but otherwise excellent. I wrangled in a WC #6 near the crux which was served some peace of mind. Several "kick out" moves saved the day, but this is pretty typical of T-Wall...
By Rob Dillon
Jun 4, 2007

Big stuff is nice down low, on the initial bombay, but you're done with it after that. The first time I climbed this thing, no one I knew had ever done it, and I dragged every giant cam I could borrow up it. None of it went in.
By 426
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Yer right about the big stuff in retrospect Rob. Protects best with #3 BD's and loooooong runners (ouch!). Can be wet when it looks dry, in which case the middle "crux" presents the nasty issue!
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 9, 2009

A great route, very memorable. Certainly on the list of neglected gems at T-Wall. Place lots of big stuff down low, just so your second can have the fun of hauling it all the way up! In reality, #3 and smaller is all you need.

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