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Open Book 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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There is the open book.


This climb is a great moderate for beginners (top-rope) who want to challenge themselves and competent leaders who want to scare themselves with the runout near the bottom and towards the top.

Start off the ground at a small corner and a polished high foot, smear your feet up the polish with a pinch on the left arete of the corner and your right hand desperately searching for a good hold, get into a standing position and make your way up to the very small gear placement about 15 ft off the ground then make your way up easier ground and eventually a slab to the top.


Obvious shallow, right-facing corner on right/center of cliff.


Small at the bottom and spaced at the top.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 14, 2007

I find the first 15-20 feet to be the scary part when leading it due to the fact that you don't get any pro till you are past the crux (which feels harder every year due to the polishing of the "foot holds")....
By nbb Besen
Mar 12, 2008

I placed a #4 OR 5 BD microstopper at the bottom and is was nice and solid at my waist for the crux. Although I definitely agree about the polish
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

A #7 (red) BD nut will fit in one of the locks before the crux. It will hold yank in in a perfect downward pull, but I doubt it would hold a fall. Needless to say I didn't test that theory. Probably a waste of time, just get the business done :)
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 27, 2014

Stepping left onto the face at ~5 feet leads to a nice slabby variation, also ~5.8 (TR only).
By Andy P.
From: Wisconsin
Aug 20, 2016

Lots of different ways to climb this an interesting moves up the book are possible; would be great to put a group on it and see how different people negotiate the climb.

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