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Avalauncher TR 
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Beginner's T,TR 
Crap On T,TR 
Flare T,TR 
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 
Hard Crack T,TR 
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 
Phone Booth T,TR 
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 
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Unnamed T,TR 

Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 22, 2008

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Description 

Pure Thoughts begins in the obvious shallow dihedral just right of Batshit Crack (.10b). After several 5.11 moves in the dihedral, pulling and balancing on bad feet and poor hands in the seam, the crux is gaining the top of the dihedral. Above the dihedral, conquer an interesting bulge by veering left (5.11), then tackle a featured face (5.10-) to the top.

Lots of fun with a wide variety of moves.

Protection 

Most people top rope this one. 2-bolt anchor.

For the brave, the crux can be protected with <1" cams in the pod at the center of the seam... protection gets scarce up higher. Definitely deserving of an R rating.


Comments on Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) Add Comment
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By Wa3lt
Mar 22, 2009

AFAIK, this was known as "Open Book" back in the day.
By jamie Hamilton
From: santa fe nm
Jan 27, 2011

Lead this route the other day and I have to say I thought that it was pretty safe. The upper section is a little run out, but the climbing is easy. The hard climbing at the top of the lower corner is really quite well protected. I would not give this route an R pro rating, but some may not agree. I also top roped the arrete to the left with out using the corner. This yielded a short hard 5.12 with tricky balancing and smearing. Cool if you have run out of stuff to play on at the cliff. cheers jamie

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