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Open Boat Whalers 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: RR, Pete Henley, 2/85
Page Views: 1,329
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Jun 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The lower corner of OBW, T-Wall.


"When open boat whalers put out to sea, they knew they only had a one in three chance of coming back..."--Rob Robinson

OBW wanders up and right on the protruding prow left of the Message. It's kinda out-there for such a short exercise, and definitely puts a little wind in your sails.

Start in the left-facing corner, gain a horizontal ledge, and move right for 20 feet or so. Navigate upwards on the slightly overhanging wall, weighing your need for pro against your ability to hang in there and dink it in, and trending right a bit to the top.

"Ships are safe in the harbor, but that's not what ships are designed for"


Standard rack.

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By Rob Dillon
Jun 4, 2007

Starts next to 'A Turn of the Page', one of those clip-ups whereby Chris Watford sought to comment subtly on the introduction of bolts to moderate climbing at the T-Wall. It's pretty good, easy .10, and well worth doing. The page never quite turned, though, so if moderate sport climbing is your game, you'd be way better off at Foster's.
By Rob Robinson
Oct 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

There have been reports, on occasion, of climbers taking HUGE falls off this route. Take care to sew up as best you can the upper headwall.

By Rob Dillon
Feb 26, 2009

[Is it even that tall? ]

You heard it from the man himself, folks. Stitch it up!
By Danny Birchman
From: Acworth, GA
Feb 11, 2015

I did it the other day. I felt the headwall was although perhaps a little wandery The climbing wasn't bad and the pro was ample with decent stances. I didn't run out more than 10 feet without good pro. I was intimidated going into it but after doing it I'd recommend it to anyone climbing 5.10.

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