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Routes in Scottish Gullies
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"between Stubby & Oompa Loompa" T WI4 R |
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Ach Mon T,TR WI4- |
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Aye Laddy! WI4 |
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By Gully T,TR WI2 |
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Chinese Water Torture M8 |
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Dizzy Curtain - duplication - to be deleted TR WI4 |
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LeSaucisson M5 |
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Oompa Loompa T WI2+ |
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Popstar T,TR WI3 |
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Stubby T WI4 |
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UK Garage T WI3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,453 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Feb 13, 2004 |
| Admins: | Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is steep curtain that does not always touch down just below the area of the Scottish Gullies downstream from the lower bridge in the Ouray Ice Park. It is in a section of short climbs, perhaps 4 pillars here. Perhaps neglected (in my experience) but nonetheless a pumpy quickie if most of the close-to-the-bridge routes are occupied. If chandeliered as we found it, it is probably a better TR.
Find this by dropping downstream from the Scottish gullies (By Gully, Ach Mon) perhaps another 100 feet (part way across a small meadow) to the 3rd to last climb before the 5 fingers area. There is a bit of exposed rock near Stubby with 2 bolts close enough for anchors.
You may find a lower angle bit of ice before this 30 foot curtain. The exposure to sun can leave this climb a bit more fragile than its neighbors. It does not always touch down. If it doesn't, carefully hop on to this curtain and dance to the top.
Addendum: apparently, when it is filled it, it can be a WI2 climb. So, I would say it is probably WI2-5.
Click here for a more recent guidebook/topo.
Find this by dropping downstream from the Scottish gullies (By Gully, Ach Mon) perhaps another 100 feet (part way across a small meadow) to the 3rd to last climb before the 5 fingers area. There is a bit of exposed rock near Stubby with 2 bolts close enough for anchors.
You may find a lower angle bit of ice before this 30 foot curtain. The exposure to sun can leave this climb a bit more fragile than its neighbors. It does not always touch down. If it doesn't, carefully hop on to this curtain and dance to the top.
Addendum: apparently, when it is filled it, it can be a WI2 climb. So, I would say it is probably WI2-5.
Click here for a more recent guidebook/topo.
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