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Weekender Wall
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Last Rage S 
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Truth of the Matter S 
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Vanity Fair S 

Onomatopoeia 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Grant Walker
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Nick Weicht on Jul 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Climb up the quality white rock and over a bulge.

Description 

Onomatopoeia has a black hanger located 11' off the ground. Climb pumpy moves straight up the face past a slightly overhanging bulge. More stainless steel and black painted hangers will get you to the anchor 40' up the wall.

Location 

Onomatopoeia is located in a bundle of hard routes packed onto the right side of the crag.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 Bolt Anchor


Photos of Onomatopoeia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This one of the first routes you get to after jump...
BETA PHOTO: This one of the first routes you get to after jump...

Comments on Onomatopoeia Add Comment
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By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 10, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Went out climbing with the 1st ascent party on a few routes at Weekender and it is agreed that the holds have become smaller on this and others, causing the grades to be stiffer than they are in the guidebook and on MP. Granted the rock here exfoliates less than nearby areas, but over time has become less friable and cleaner. Over the bulge, holds have deteriorated, yielding a crux that is thinner and goes less easily the way it did when bolted originally. Harder more straight-forward sequences emerge and up the grade a little. Approximately at .12b now.

PLUS!!!

After the last bolt and on the ramp, there is a fractured flake with a "pearl sized" chalk dimple on it.....don't grab it, it is going to go. It is completely non-essential and other holds are all around.
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
May 11, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I thought this was a bit soft compared to other climbs on similar rock in the mat valley of similar grade.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 11, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

On similar rock certainly, similar features doubtful.. on similar rock. The features here are quite different from Wookie, Purinton(as you would know) and the other lot on the Glenn. But, my initial comment was to reflect that I went climbing with the bolting party yesterday and conversation was about the holds that had changed. That was the point. Given the fact that this wall went up before Weiner and the person speaking bolted the line, I think my comment stands as his observation. Troll on....
By The Shocker
May 11, 2016

I don't think hes trolling, seems more like a vain attempt at achieving some sort of relevancy to his opinion through misguided assertion.
But.... How could you question the assertion of a "mountain project administrator" with 6 years of climbing experience? He definitely knows what he's talking about. I mean.... He's got a drill and isnt afraid to use it, how could he be wrong?!
Maybe Hes implying that Grant is getting weak? I'd like to see the "administrator" say that one to his face!
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
May 26, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Sure do love pickles. I only eat DRILL pickles though.