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Sugarloaf, West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Crack Face T 
Cry Mary T 
Espresso S 
Fat Merchant Crack T 
Ghost in the Machine T 
Grand Delusion T 
Hanging by a Thread S 
Happy Face T,S 
Hyperspace T 
Macrel Sky T 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T,S,TR 
Northern Lights T 
Only the Young Die Brave T 
Pan Dulce T 
Podium, The T 
Pony Express T 
Slippy Liam S 
Sugar Daddy S 
TM's Deviation T 
Twist and Shout T,TR 
Under the Spreading Atrophy T,S 
West Chimney T 

Only the Young Die Brave 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Will Chen, Dave Kennedy, Mark Robinson
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 8, 2005

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Description 

Shares the start with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'. Mantle up to a horizontal ledge on the right-most side of the face then climb the left side of the sharp arete. Very few feet provide the difficulty on this one.

This climb is located about 20 feet uphill from Pony Express and is often shaded by a few large pine trees.

Protection 

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor, bring a small piece (.4) to protect the crack below the first bolt.


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By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Great climb, solid arete technique required...
By Vlad S
Feb 8, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I replaced one of the 5/16" buttonhead protection bolts on the route. It turned out to be very bomber (in spite of being 26-27 years old), so I would assume the remaining three 5/16" bolts don't need to be replaced for at least another decade.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 11, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Those 5/16 buttonheads can be quite deceivingly bomber. I'll usually give them some light (funking) with an old sling and hammer. If they don't budge at all, they're probably good to go. If the bolt twists or pulls out a bit,(not the hanger spinning), then it probably needs to be replaced. What usually happens with those bolts is they crack in half near the center of the split shank and appear to be solid until you give them a good tug with a funkness and hammer. Then their strength becomes apparent.

I inspected those bolts a few years ago when I was going around replacing all the old bolts at Sugarloaf. Most of the bad bolts at Sugarloaf have been replaced. There are still a few but they are on routes that never see traffic. I'll get to those eventually. If there is one you know about and want replaced, let me know and I'll put it on the list. Or I can give you the bolt if you are able and willing to do it yourself.