REI Community
Corral Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fistfull of Poodles T 
Chuck Wagon Crack T 
City Slickers TR 
Corral Crack T 
Herd Instinct T 
High Plains Drifter T 
Honky Justice T 
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 
Party in the Desert T 
Party in the West T 
Party till Ya' Puke T 
Ranch Hand T 
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 
Six-Gun by My Side T 
Way Out West TR 
Wide Ride T 
Wild Wild West S 

Only Outlaws Have Guns 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson & Bob Bealle, March 1990
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Here's a shot of Woody about to move past the flak...


This is the second to left-most bolted climb on the left side of the Corral Wall. It ascends 3 sections of light-colored face, separated by horizontal cracks/grooves. The line starts up and left and curves gracefully right past 3 bolts until finishing up and right to join the anchors on Six Gun By My Side.

The climbing was decent and the rock pretty good. No complaints, but nothing about the route really stood out. A good addition to the cliff and worth doing while you are there.


3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rap. Some gear to 1.5" can be fished into horizontals between the bolts.

Photos of Only Outlaws Have Guns Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Only Outlaws Have Guns (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP
Only Outlaws Have Guns (5.10a), Joshua Tree NP

Comments on Only Outlaws Have Guns Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Worth doing while waiting for the better routes nearby to free up. The crux comes at the first bolt as you undercling a large flake that defies gravity, then reach for the top of the very same flake and gingerly ease your weight onto it. Higher, generic friction moves head up and right to anchors. A #3 Camalot (or equivalent) can be helpful for a directional above the last bolt if somebody is following. Squeaks by with one star out of five.
By Blake H.
Feb 25, 2006

I thought the moves past the flake were interesting and when added to the face moves, made this climb ok. not bad. better than so-so, 1.78329 stars. I actually liked it!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Worth doing while in the area. Especially while waiting for some of the better routes. Crux seems to be getting past the first bolt near the flake. Stand's low angle! If you're feeling sketch a number 1 fits easily in the first horizontal but it's kinda silly as the next bolt is 18" above that. Once finished you can rap route or TR with 60m cord.
By Bill Rusk
From: Duluth, MN
Feb 21, 2008

Fun crux, after that pretty elementary slab climbing.
By TinMan92592
From: Temecula, CA
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

BEWARE: Flake above first bolt appears very hollow and vulnerable to breaking off, especially if you had a cam in the flake and the force of a fall were to lift up the flake.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Nov 29, 2010

Homemade bolt hangers, at least they're thicker than Leepers.
By Rob M
From: Shangri-LA
May 28, 2012

The flake here is VERY FLEXY. BE CAREFUL so you don't send part of it down on the belayer.

You can pinch it from below, palm out, and pull DOWN directly on it just enough to make the move. Much less stress on it than pulling outward.
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The flake is solid as a hold. I cranked on it pretty good. I wouldn't be confortable with gear behind it though. Fun moves and harder than I expected getting past and on top of the flake on the face.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About