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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: oretro on Jul 22, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the route. Climbing to...


Crux is fifth pitch, arguably between either the second and third bolts, or the third and fourth bolts. There is nowhere to place pro on this pitch.


From the boulders where you park, bushwhack 2 miles along the relatively horizontal trail past culverts and river beds. The giant pipe indicating where to turn into the forest is VERY obvious (i.e. there are cairns on top of and next to the pipe). Many other pipes will be seen before the cairned pipe.
Walk very steeply uphill through the forest, ultimately heading up and the right when you are at the base of buttress.

We rapped down with 1 x70m and 1 x60m rope.

Consider bringing a machete to whack through the thorn bushes growing onto this seldomly used trail.


There are 1-4 bolts per pitch. Bolted anchors.
Bring a single set of cams, 0.1-1"

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By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 22, 2016

If I remember right, you use the cams on the 4th pitch. And there might have been a placement on the 1st.
By Dirk Rogstad
Aug 22, 2016

Really a great climb. The crux pitch has some well spaced bolts and stiff slab moves, very exciting. Its a shame the road has deteriorated making the hike in a bit tedious.
By oretro
Aug 27, 2016

By road, Dirk, do you mean trail? From my recent experience, there wasn't much opportunity to drive in further on the road. It's the trail that has deteriorated.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 27, 2016

The trail in was in good shape in 2015, quite easy to follow.

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