REI Community
Unknown Pleasures
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Leapin' Lizards S 
Oni S 
Persona Non Grata S 
Sharkfighter S 
Touch of Grey S 
Unknown 11 S 
Unknown 9 S 
Unknown Pleasures S 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Bleyl
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Just below the crux on Oni.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


An improbable-looking line that is quite a fun outing.

Good pockets and edges down low followed by a sudden dearth of human-usable holds after the fifth bolt.

Figure out how to get up past the seeming blankness and from thence past the sixth bolt. If you're still attached to the wall at this point fight the pump and head to the last bolt, and then up and slightly left to the chains.

There is a second pitch above and left of the chains. The first bolt is probably 15 feet left and eight or ten feet from the chains. (Or link as one pitch, but the rope drag looks horrendous.)


On the east-facing wall that is around to the right (north) outside corner from where the trail initially meets the wall. The routes start on a ledge. Scramble up near the right side of the ledge.

This route is the 3rd from the left. A double-chain belay/rappel anchor is at head height on the wall. This route leads up and right from that anchor.


7 bolts to the first chain anchors. There is a fixed draw at bolt 6.

Another pitch with several fixed draws above.

Comments on Oni Add Comment
Show which comments
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
May 30, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This area is so beautiful. Off the deck and amazing AF. First 4-5 bolts are easy then you get a little rest before launching thru the crux at the fixed draw. Its very balancy with small feet and sharp hands trending right thru more nasty holds then you are rewarded with some nice jugs then more crimpiness to the chains. I liked this climb because it wandered around, it wasn't just straight up. Short and sweet.
By Melissa K
Oct 25, 2015

does anyone know what the extension goes at? I'm talking about the one that trends leftward.

Also, there is another variation that is more direct and pulls a small roof on black rock - any information on this one too? Thanks!
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Oct 26, 2015

@Melissa: Darren Knezek at Mountainworks in Provo can give you specifics; however, I'm pretty sure the extension hasn't yet been sent. I gave it a run once and it was 5.really-hard. Darren has worked on it a few times.

The direct line was put up by Darren; I sent it to the first anchors at what I thought was probably .11c or d; that could change as more stuff falls off.
By climbslc
From: SLC, UT
Oct 30, 2016

The upper "pitch" that a goes left and up the overhanging dihedral is called Onibabba. I linked it from the top of Oni and thought it was 12b? Too much FA-bias to say, but there was significant pucker factor to be sure. I think I put a long runner on the chains of Oni.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About