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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tony Lusk, GlennTodd, Brian Benedon (1998)
Season: Full Sun
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jan 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Right after the break right.


Ascend a low angle ramp, clipping three or four bolts, before branching right onto a vertical, featured face complete with a sinker hole. Round the corner to pull a final bulge before reaching the relatively low anchors.

While this route is listed as 10+ in Squeezing The Lemmon II I found it to be comparable in difficulty to the 10- routes.


One is located on the right (lower) side of the cliff. It is the rightmost route before the cliff forms a corner.

The first four bolts are shared with Before Limitations. At bolt four One branches right around the corner while Before Limitations stays on the vertical face.


While listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II as a mixed route, One is a fully bolted sport route. The first three or four bolts could be avoided in favor of gear if so inclined.

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