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Iron Curtain Wall
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Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 
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One With the Rock S,TR 
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Unknown West of One with the Rock S 
Up In a Flash S 

One With the Rock 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,735
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: One With The Rock


This is the westmost line on the cliff. It almost deserves 4 stars, and I might change my mind yet. It is a very good route. It start with an easy first bolt (probably the easiest 1st bolt on the wall). Then it gets hard, forcing you to smear and edge very tenuous holds. Hands aren't much help but they are key. Maybe that didn't make sense. A key hand-hold is there to move through the crux; however, the hands don't mark your success through most of this lower section, but good footwork does. After the 3rd bolt, the climbing eases up and hands are good again. The Ruckman's book shows a 5.10a mini-crux at the last bolt, but I never even noticed it. In fact, my belayer mentioned that it seemed like I was on a 5.8 by my speed on the upper section.


7 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. It shares anchors with Out of Touch if you want to top-rope.

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By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Jul 11, 2005

Do yourself a favor and rappel off of these anchors, a 60 m rope will work
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

What a fun yet touchy route. This one will test your slabbin skills. The key here is to keep your balance and cool. Have a good belayer on this, because the falls can be awkward through the crux. The upper half is fun with .10ish moves before the top.
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 25, 2013

The ratings on the wall don't make sense to me. I thought this one felt about the same as Iron Curtain (10a) on the same wall and Perestroika (10c) felt easier than both of these. Maybe I was just missing or finding key holds on each climb? Almost all the routes on the right side of the wall feel about the same. Tricky, thin, balancy slab and manteling at the bottom with easier moves above. So don't let the 11c rating scare you. If you climbed Iron Curtain, hop on this one for sure.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Not the biggest fan of this route, maybe because I accidentally hopped on it. Also because the crux just wasn't that awesome. The Ruckman guide says it well "the sequence is far from obvious". Crux move is 11 but it is really only one move and a bunch of thin stepping up. For those unfamiliar with how routes are rated, it is the single hardest move in a route that will give it a rating. Hence why this route, although much less sustained than Perestroika or Iron Curtain, has a more difficult rating. If your not an 11 leader, I feel there's a good chance you could still find a way through the crux. Top was fun and easy, I would call it 5.8 climbing unless you completely avoid the arete to the right of the top out. Great TR option for somewhat newbies, as I'm sure there's ways to climb around the crux. Lead falls will be pretty awkward at the crux, Commit!
By Fields Tian
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 21, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Finally red point this route at third trip to Iron wall. Also my first 11c. It's more a mental toute, you got to trust your foot on slippery hold and thing edge. A lot of fun.

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