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One Way Ticket 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ta-Chi Wang & Paul Foster
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Nate Ball on May 8, 2013

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Matt crushing at dawn. The 2006 trad book cover ph...

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Description 

Approach via Hippie Crack, Wedding Day, or just scramble up from the right. From Broadway Ledge, climb the juggy face below and left of the roof. Once level with the horizontal crack, hand traverse along it, fiddling in 1.5-3" cams where the crack is parallel enough. From the lip, make a big pull up to the jugs, then scamper up the face to the top. Best to belay from the bolts on the boulder or build a gear anchor at the lip of the tower. Originally graded 11a.

Location 

Left (south) side of Broadway Ledge, above Hippie Crack

Protection 

Gear to 3"
316 steel (2011)


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