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Redgarden - Tower Two
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One Way Out 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Drew Spaulding, Dan Hackett, May 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 571
Submitted By: Drew Spaulding on Oct 20, 2012

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Upper South face of Tower 2.

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  • Description 

    This is another "Way Out" to the finish of T2. Start up the 2nd crack encountered after the T2 pin traverse (just up the ramp past the "Seams Beyond" start...). Follow the obvious, moderate crack to the large, ramping ledge above. From this alcove, step up right into the low-angle, left-facing corner to where the lichen plagues the steepness above. Place a few good pieces in the corner and step out right to the arete (this area took alot of cleaning of loose "dinner plates" and "potato chips" before it was desirable). Pull out the bulge (crux), and clip a fixed wire up and left before trending right on amazing jugs. Run it out up to the arching, right-facing corner above (this corner was heavily chocked with furry lichen but now is climbing quite clean after much scrubbing...). Follow this steep feature until you can exit leftward out a nice, diagonal, hand crack. Trend up and left into an obvious, corner system to its end... and then up and left into the next crack to the crest of the ridge on Tower 2. This is really an exciting, fun pitch! Instead of climbing 70' of runout face like "Seams Beyond", "One Way Out" finishes its last 70' up obvious crack systems to the small notch up on the ridge!


    Full array of gear protects this long 150' adventure pitch. There is a slung rappel anchor there to descend down toward the East Slabs Descent.... Or continue to the top to find another slung rappel anchor....

    Photos of One Way Out Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Three T2 alternative finishes.
    BETA PHOTO: Three T2 alternative finishes.
    Rock Climbing Photo: "One Way Out" starts off the diagonal ra...
    "One Way Out" starts off the diagonal ra...

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