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One Time at Band Camp 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips Luke Douglas?
Page Views: 2,451
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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  • Description 

    The bolted line just left of the 1st pitch of Stiffler's Mom. Extremely thin friction at bolt 1. Extreme!!! Wait for a cool morning to get this one under your belt. The upper 3 bolts are a blast.

    Location 

    5-10 minutes east from the base of Pentapitch. As you walk past Pentapitch, you will pass 3 slabs with routes (not counting Neuromancer (10 feet away from Pentapitch)). Slab 1: Endless Torment / Lesbian Seagulls, Slab 2: Precious Lost, Slab 3: Stiffler's Mom / One Time at Band Camp.

    Protection 

    5 draws and 2 for the chains.


    Comments on One Time at Band Camp Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 16, 2012
    By tenesmus
    Jun 24, 2006

    Didn't he post this as .11d on utahclimbers? Hard down low in July.
    By Nathan Fisher
    Jun 24, 2006

    Tyler posted it on UC as an 11+, but he also asked for a consensus. I felt 5.11b was accurate. Very slimy this time of year. If I go back in September or October, I may think it is only a 5.10c or something. The upper face is cool and solid, it's just that 1st bolt.
    By Nathan Fisher
    Jun 28, 2006

    Tyler, that is true. It is a move that favors the 6 footers. I almost couldn't do it as clean as I did. My partner for the day, who is assuredly better than me, and also assuredly shorter than I, could not do it.

    Nice line all the same.
    By glen kaplan
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 12, 2006
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    yeah, I don't know...we did it in June, or rather tried it, after doing Stiffler's...I think it is harder than anything on Stiffler's...the 11+ seemed somewhat accurate (I want to climb it again in better conditions--it's got to be at least 5.11 solid--I'm comparing to other routes in the area)...at least for that short 8 foot section that moves past the 1st bolt...otherwise the rest of the route is cruiser and fun (either way you do it: using the flake/chimney thing or staying on the face and using the flake/chimney thing for your left hand only) this section reminds me of that route to the left of funky bolt at the city...the one that starts in the flake/chimney thing :)

    but...we'll see how it ends up...there is still room for some cleaning to be done...I pulled off several small flakes and crystals...

    awesome work

    By Nathan Fisher
    Jul 19, 2006

    Yes it was a TR, however... I had attempted the lead earlier and when the weather is better I will go back for the redpoint. I did take into account the fact that I TR'd it and I also adjusted for the conditions. I personally feel that if you climb a route once that is not enough to get an accurate grade. So take my 5.11b with all those grains of salt.
    By BobGray
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 26, 2006
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I have to say One Time At Band Camp is one of the hardest slab routes I have ever tried. I have walked many other slab routes in the 10+ range and feel in no way shape or form can this be 10c. It is at least 11+. Nuff said. Tall guys have it made on this one.
    By 5555
    Mar 27, 2007

    Nate,
    Curious if you ever went back and led this route? What was your final grade? Did you send clean? 10C would make you a slab wizard if that grade still holds for you. Hell, 11B would make you my new hero.

    Mark Davis
    By Nathan Fisher
    Apr 22, 2007

    Maddog,
    Not yet. Anytime you want to get out and get it (as long as you don't drop me :) ) let me know. I took all winter off and am ready for it.
    By tenesmus
    May 28, 2007

    still can't do that move. But I have been on some other 5.11 slabs lately and that thing is .11+. Just nothing there to hold onto. Hell of a lot harder than Punany AND Dangling Participle AND Neuromancer and Romance on the Rocks. I thought it was harder than Walk on Air too for what its worth.

    oh - nice hangers!
    By Nathan Fisher
    Jun 21, 2007

    Lol TP
    By Nelson Day
    From: Joshua Tree, CA
    Aug 16, 2012
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    It was hot today when I tried to lead it. Definitely one of the harder slab climbs I have tried. Definitely a LOT harder than the crux pitch of Stifflers Mom. I give this solid .11+/.12-. The move between the 1st and 2nd bolt was tenuous, took me about 20 tries to figure out, and ended up relying on a single crystal edge that was definitely one of the hardest slab moves I have done. This is definitely harder than .11b, especially in warmer weather and if you stick to the bolted line and avoid the flake/chimney on the left. The rest of the moves on the line after the move between the 1st and 2nd bolt probably go at .11+.

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