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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Robin Barley,Judy Komori, Nick Watts, 2003
Page Views: 1,781
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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top of p4

Description 

Mostly a slab climb, mostly harder than Over the Rainbow, mostly well bolted, most likely empty of other climbers.
There are 3 cruxes encountered, first being the first pitch 10b slab moves are slippery with some nubbins to find. The 2nd is the perplexing steep 10c slab moves on pitch 2. The 3rd is on pitch 4 with some more steep slippery slab moves 10c.That said none of it is harder then 10b slabs in Leavenworth, or 5.9 slabs in Yosemite, and much better protected.

P1: At the right end of the giant slab where Dierde, Banana Peel and Over the Rainbow are, but steep enough to warrant a few bolts, pass the tree ledge and belay at next ledge. A tree or maybe bolts for anchor.

P2: Head for depression runnel with bolts ( crux) and then straight up passing over Sparrow and either belay here or a bit further on the big ledge with trees.

P3: If you used the lower belay, move the belay up to the ledge because this pitch is like 40-50 meters. A straight up bolt line on a steep tricky slab.

P4: Starts just below a series of overlaps with vegetation, but you will stay on the slab following bolts (2nd crux) up a slippery slab with a few features to desperately find. Also a long 50 m. pitch.

P5: Mostly 5.7 slab up to Broadway ledge.

Location 

You will find the start where the trail from the Bottom Line ( a great approach route) comes up to the tree covered ledge of the start for Diedre.

Protection 

McLane calls this a sport route, I think you would be brave to not bring some gear as well. There will not be many places for gear except on the upper end of pitch 2 where it crosses Sparrow, and on the start of pitch 4. Bolted and tree anchors.


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By Jpusch
From: Vancouver, BC
Feb 27, 2015

Just a heads up... The new Squamish guidebook shows a bolt belay at the end of the first pitch, whereas when I climbed it I only found a couple skinny trees which didn`t inspire much confidence. There is a horizontal crack here too, but full of roots so no way to make a decent gear anchor.

I think I only placed one piece of gear on the whole route and that was at the start of the fourth pitch to protect the moves getting to the first bolt.

This route is lots of fun though and is a logical step up in difficulty from over the rainbow.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 27, 2015

yeah, I was not trusting my memory here. I know we passed the big horizontal passage of Banana Peel where there are bigger trees and went to next smaller horizontal with a tiny pine. I don't think there are bolts there.
By G Reynen
Jun 20, 2015

There's a pretty big tree at the right end of the first belay ledge that is a perfectly fine anchor, don't be deterred.

This is really a sport climb and a well-bolted one at that. I placed one purple C4 at the beginning of pitch 4 and I wouldn't blame anyone for wanting to do the same but don't bother bringing more gear than that unless you're continuing above.

Agree that it is the logical next step from Over the Rainbow.
By Ryan Lynne
May 9, 2016

All of the anchors are either tree anchors or bolted anchors for this climb. P1 is a tree anchor, P2 is a bolted anchor or a tree anchor, P3 is a bolted anchor, P4 is a bolted anchor, and P5 is a tree anchor. I don't recommend using the bolted anchor for P2 as the next pitch is around 55 meters and it will be hard to communicate with your partner. Go up another 5-10 meters and belay off of the tree instead. The last bolt on P4 before the anchor is spinning.

The only gear really needed for this climb is a purple C4 to prevent a fall factor two starting P4. This is not really a crux so you could just clip the station as well. You may also want some gear for last pitch as there are no bolts. It however is really easy climbing and I didn't bother to place anything.

The start of this climb can be easily found by looking for the 2 side by side birch trees 15 meters above in the horizontal crack.

I found the crux of the route to be the shallow corner at the start of P2. The next hardest section was the small dimples in the glacier polish on P4.

Overall this route is well bolted and there is always a bolt nearby for all of the hard moves.
By Anders Ourom
Jan 8, 2017

This climb largely follows the line of Black Bug's Blood, which was first climbed in 1978 - Peter Croft, Richard Suddaby, et al. They used considerably fewer bolts.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jan 9, 2017

Anders, I was just checking the Campbell book and it sure looks mostly the same. There must have been an outcry of WTF when Robin renamed that route?
By ihategrigris
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 8, 2017

Bolt belays were only on the top pitches. Bottom two pitches were tree protected. The trees are pretty bomber. Skip the very first set of birch trees in the Banana Peel Crack.

The dimples are really tasty. Sweet, but with a hint of fear.

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