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Flaked Out T 
Gilded Lady, The S 
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Offset Crack T,TR 
One Rat Too Many T 
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Unsorted Routes:

One Rat Too Many 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: A close up of the route.

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This ascends the bushy crack to the offwidth finish left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.

Start up an easy crack system passing 3 bushes. Continue up to the offwidth. There are still some loosish chockstones in the offwidth that refused to comeout on lead. A #4 Camalot fits just before the crux. A #5 Camalot (old style) would have been nice for the double Gaston offwidth finish. There really is no ideal anchor up above. You can get a decent threaded sling below a boulder.

Walk off left or traverse 4th class to the 2 bolt anchor to the right.

Most folks won't find this terribly appetizing.

Also, there is a left finish for the last 10 feet or so that is probably 9+. It may need a brushing.

Location 

This is left of Seams Thin and right of Feeding the Rat.

Protection 

Red Alien, #0.5, #0.75, #3, and #4 Camalots worked, although an old style #5 Camalot would have made the finish more secure.


Photos of One Rat Too Many Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The wide part.
BETA PHOTO: The wide part.
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your cho...
Double Gaston or real offwidth technique, your cho...
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer view of the wide crack.
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the wide crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb enjoys the lower section.
Deb enjoys the lower section.

Comments on One Rat Too Many Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crux will take a new style C4 #5 above where you can place a #4, but if you want to "sew it up", I would use a #6. The wide part is only about a body length long.
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The offwidth at the top is the crux. I suck at OW, so it felt like a 5.9 to me. #6 C4 was great to have for it
By Theodore Morrow
From: Golden, Co
Feb 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I feel like I'm reasonably strong at sport climbing, this was my third trad lead ever, and I didn't have anything bigger than a C4 #3. I ran it out at the top and just laid back the offwidth, very easy layback with positive slopers. My offwidth technique is non-existent, but I never felt that this climb was hard, especially if you have gear for the offwidth. My gf found a great knee jam with a no hands rest right at the beginning of the offwidth.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
6 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I did this climb for the second time today. The crux is really only one move in the offwidth, but it is something to do if you like climbing up rocks.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
5 days ago

We think it was a good move regardless.