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One Of These Days Buttress
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One Of These Days 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl McConachie
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 5,833
Submitted By: Bill Kelly on Sep 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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One of These Days, in all of it's glory. June 2010


The crux: It's probably the sustained climbing esp after pulling the roof.

What's good: (a) it's well protected, (b) it's varied- from finger cracks to roof to hand jambs to overhang to chimney- a little (or a lot) of everything for 115', (c) it's got an anchor with chains so you can top rope it with a 70m.


One Of These Days is located on the north side of the buttress.


Trad. Pro to 2.5". Anchor with chains. No protection bolts.

Photos of One Of These Days Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A good impression of the angle of OOTD. This is ~4...
BETA PHOTO: A good impression of the angle of OOTD. This is ~4...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overhanging, but not too pumpy.
Overhanging, but not too pumpy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photos don't do the overhang justice.  This is on ...
BETA PHOTO: Photos don't do the overhang justice. This is on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: One Of These Days, 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: One Of These Days, 5.10c

Comments on One Of These Days Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2017
By Ryan Curry
Sep 6, 2009

THE BEST 5.10 crack in the Tahoe area. A must do for the 5.10 leader. Take care in lowering from the chains even with a 70 meter rope, it's close.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Jun 10, 2010

One of the best single pitches at the grade that I've ever done! Sustained and pumpy, but just when you need them a bomber fingerlock or handjam or jug will appear, keeping it from ever getting really desperate.
By Ron Anderson
Jan 28, 2011

I was up there in the early ninties with Dano and Tom Gilje- who hadnt been up there before, he led it with three pieces i think...His feet even blew above the roof wayyyy out from pro- Dano looked over and said "hes a freekin NUT"...took him maybe five minutes..
By Branden916 Lawson
Aug 5, 2011

A fun route but I wouldn't call it the "best in Tahoe area", It's not a route I'd climb again..Been there done that.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 4, 2011

This route reminded me a lot of Lunatic Fringe. A number of different 5.10 moves separated by great rests, long pitch. I think where the crux is on both routes is going to depend on your personal strengths as a climber, but I did feel the individual crux moves on Lunatic were harder, but that the rests on Lunatic were better since that route isn't as steep as These Days. Pretty similar in overall feel, and both routes eat stoppers.
By Matt Twyman
From: Austin, TX
Jun 28, 2012

no joke on the 70m. my slightly chopped 70 didn't exactly reach. Had to tie in on the upper boulder then stretch it down to the start for TR.

What a freaking classic line. Wonderfully sustained with a few moderate cruxes. Pulling the roof isn't as bad as it may look. Most fun. Really just holding out through the end is the crux. Great power-endurance trainer!

Only a few sections with suspect rock (the undercling flake, just before the obvious giant flake, really should be considered for removal. Big enough to really do damage to anyone below or even cut the rope if it went. I put a big chalk "X" on it to at least make new travelers aware that it's questionable.

Incredibly sustained and anyone who leads this deserves some giant feathers in their cap. Alex Mellon told me he plugged ~ 25 pieces. Good lord.
By Bill Kelly
From: Lake Tahoe
Jun 28, 2012

"really should be considered for removal"

Matt, thought-provoking comment. I've had the same concern regarding this flake myself over the years but ultimately concluded its presence adds to the route character and therefore (esp in the absence of changed conditions, e.g., obvious looseness, etc.) ought to stay. Seems to me it is a so-called God-hold and its absence could likely change things considerably in that section.

FWIW, my take: (1) Since it already looks tenuous, climbers won't yard on it. (2) There are places to belay this route at least on top rope that are not in the direct fall-line. (3) Responsible leaders (those likely to be leading this route) tend to lead responsibly - calling out suspect fragile or loose flakes to the belayer as needed and using caution around them.

Glad you liked the route!
By Kenny Thompson
From: Cottage grove oregon
Jun 30, 2012

Nice petroglyph
Jan 23, 2013

there is NOTHING that needs to be cleaned from this route.. It has had 10,000 ascents by now...
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
May 31, 2014

It's crazy that locals in the Tahoe area aren't hitting this in droves. Every time I've been to the area, no one is lining up for this route, in fact usually we are the only car in the canyon.... Gotta love woodfords.

If you're 5.11 this thing is just gonna cruise at perfect .10 the whole way for you. If you've climbed it before, it's going to feel like perfect .10 for you.

If you climb .10, and have bought into the deserved hype of this route, then your OS attempt is going to be absolutely on you the whole way. A proud onsight for the 5.10 climber for sure. Unfortunately I am not in that OS club.

Get on this route right now!
By Short Fall Sean
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 19, 2015

Super cool route; don't know what Branden is talking about upthread! I climbed it, and then I immediately climbed it again. And I'm sure I'll be back to climb it some more!

Feels hard for the grade, but probably isn't a sandbag. It's just sustained and steeper than your average 5.10 trad climb, so the top half feels quite tiring. Lots of good jugs, jams, and gear though.
By fivefun
Jul 3, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Wow. Incredible route. Absolutely one of the top 5.10 pitches I have ever climbed. 10c for sure!
By Bill Kelly
From: Lake Tahoe
Aug 6, 2016

Really? Three stars? lol
By almostrad
From: Lake Tahoe
Aug 12, 2016

Now equipped with fixed steel biners at the chains. Feel free to TR on them.
By Matt Carroll
Aug 3, 2017

completely classic. Well worth the trip out!

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