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Northwest Face II AI2-3, 400M T 
One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m T 

One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 926
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Jan 14, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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First time up

Description 

One Nut Wonder is the name I gave to the major West Face couloir on Telegraph Peak. It starts near Cedar Glen, goes up an avy path, and steepens at the crux, which could be iced up (much easier and more fun), or dry.

Above the short crux is a runnel of low angle ice. The couloir opens up to a wide snow gully up to 45 or 50 degrees or so (no fancy science here), which then terminates near the south summit.

The views are really special. The San Gabes are where my soul belongs, and when I'm climbing this route I soak in some of the best views I've ever seen.

The name was given when I took several falls on the crux on a dry year following Alex F. I smashed one of my testicles repeatedly in my BD Alpine Bod harness. The crux was protected by a single nut.

Location 

Start at the Icehouse Canyon trailhead. Hike up IHC trail and make the left turn to Cedar Glen. Once at Cedar Glen campground, continue hiking for a bit until you can make a beeline up to the base of the couloir. You will have to check your map here to find the right way.

I have approached the route from a lot of different directions, and honestly they're all kinda crappy. Just go for it and you'll probably have fun.

Protection 

A very light alpine rack. A range of a few nuts, maybe a small #5-6 hex, a couple stubby screws and a couple snow pickets. Or, go without and go fast. Really depends on conditions, and you won't know til you're at the crux.


Photos of One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ in the upper section.
JJ in the upper section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux ice. JJ tore it all down once, falling into t...
BETA PHOTO: Crux ice. JJ tore it all down once, falling into t...
Rock Climbing Photo: One Nut Wonder topo
BETA PHOTO: One Nut Wonder topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo showing the 5.whatever crux
Topo showing the 5.whatever crux

Comments on One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m Add Comment
Show which comments
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Jan 14, 2013

This would be a fun ski descent if the skier was wary of the crux.
By ttriche
From: Altadena, CA
Jan 14, 2013

yet another good argument for always climbing what you plan to ski

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