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One Night Stand 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Perch, Chris Reveley, 10/15/9
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Deadpoint.

Description 

This is the leftmost route up this gully (the aspen filled gully on the lowest part of the formation facing the road) on the right side of this crag. The rock is definitely scaly and scruffy. Too bad, because the moves could be fun. Decent-sized holds are still coming off this route.

Get stable on the face, reach out right to an edge, grab the rounded jug left, clip. Now you get the crux move where you get your feet up on scaly rock, paste, pull, and deadpoint. The crunching under foot is disquieting. The difficulty eases, but the rock quality remains suspect. Move left after the 3rd bolt.

Rappel 25'.

Rich Perch rates this 5.10.

Location 

This is the leftmost / highest bolted climb up this aspen-ed gully.

Protection 

3 bolts, a spot, 2 bolt anchor with twisted links.


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