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One Move Wonder 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Dallas Branum on Jul 2, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: One Move Wonder

Description 

19. One Move Wonder (~5.10, 75') Start just to the right of Swamp Crack on a broken rock face and diagonal up and left. And join Swamp Crack momentarily as you reach the shield. Climb up and right of the shield and proceed diagonally out right to a stance below the crux. Pull extremely thin face holds to get a rounded jug and pull up onto Happy Ending where you can clip the last bolt and the angle slacks off. Scramble on up and over to the tree sling anchor of Swamp Crack. A somewhat easier finish at the crux (~5.9) is possible by continuing to move out right and around onto the lower angle arête (instead of up). Clip the last bolt of Happy Ending and follow it up to the tree anchor above Swamp Crack.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


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