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One Holer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Dec 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

One of the better gear routes in the Gorge. Follows a thin crack with thoughtful movement between positive holds and edges. When the crack ends 3 bolts protect the fairly continuous face above.

Location 

Left of the obvious wide crack that is down and left of Nirvana.

Protection 

Marty's book says the protection is tricky??? I did place a Tricam but other than that a few obvious stoppers and a small cam should suffice.


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By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Jun 2, 2014

I led this with 2-3 previous gear leads under my belt (all in Tuolumne and in the 5.7-5.8 range) and found the gear to be pretty tricky.

All of my placements were good, but they were almost all nuts and I got pretty pumped placing a few.

There is a bomber .5 Camalot C4 placement about 25' up that was my first truly multidirectional piece.

The climbing is fun up above, but not as tightly bolted as most of the later gorge routes.
By aaronsj89
From: fort collins
Feb 27, 2016

5.10a seems like a bit of a sandbag, I think the book's 10b is probably spot on. As for the gear, maybe tricky is not the right word, but it is definitely not straight forward crack climbing. The 'crack' is very broken, and intermittent. On the onsight burn, it was heady for me because the next gear placement is sometimes not visible at all.

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