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Dead Horse Crag
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One Hold Shy 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 21, 2008

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The name, One Hold Shy, stems from the nature of this route. It's "one hold shy" of being a good 5.10/10+. As it is, it can be freed in the 5.11+ range and the start of the route is the crux. The original start was done by standing on the boulder at the route's base. Some, perhaps many, will even want to place a cheater stone on top of the boulder. You'll understand why if you try it. There is a difficult undercling and right of the first bolt are small starting holds that seem to be just out of reach to gain purchase on the face, hence it's the crux. A new and better variation was "discovered." It climbs to the right of the original start with a good fist jam and an undercling, going up to a good, small edge on the face before moving to the holds at the horizontal break.

Once you pull the starting moves and reach the horizontal break, continue through a break in the roof above to the second bolt. After the third bolt, mantle on to the large ledge below the roof. You can place a red Camalot in a horizontal break before making this mantle and to help protect the climbing to the next bolt. Climb the left side of the roof to the fourth and final bolt and finish on a good ledge with a two bolt anchor.

The rating is somewhat difficult to ascertain. Then again, it's just another fun route to add to this fun crag. By yarding on the first bolt you can effectively make this route 5.10/10+ A0.


This is the far right route at the Dead Horse Crag and begins above a boulder at the base.


4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Some may want a red Camalot between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but most will find it unnecessary.

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By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 21, 2008

To see a picture of this route, see here.

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