|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||T. Bubb & J Meir, 6/1/2002|
|Season:||Extended Alpine season|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Jun 1, 2002|
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|Comments on One for the Red Team||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2006
Dougald MacDonald wrote:
"Kate Bartlett and I climbed a fine variation to the initial pitches on the South Face, in 1996 I think. It climbs the Flatiron-like face to the right of the obvious left-facing corner on the right side of the south face. (Rossiter has it going up the corner -- this isn't what we climbed, though it looks OK.) What we climbed was a pitch and a half of fun, somewhat run-out 5.8 face climbing -- no scarier than the offwidth at the top of the route. Start at the bottom and climb where the holds lead you, then join the regular route."
This is that 'obvious, left-facing corner' to the left of what Dougald and Kate did.
Jun 5, 2016
Get on this route! If you do this start and the finger crack finish, you will have just as much fun as anyone on the Petit Grepon.
I climbed it in June 2016, and it was clean. The climbing is really interesting, it stays 5.8 for the whole way (no big ledges to break up the fun), and the pro is good in the dihedral.
I broke this into two pitches (up to a big ledge after you exit the dihedral). I then linked the remaining climbing with the first 5.6 pitch above the big ledge. It just barely works with a 70m (and maybe a few feet of simul-climbing). Venture left from the belay to avoid heinous rope drag.
The R rating is likely for the stretch of 5.5 climbing after the dihedral. If you can do the dihedral, you won't worry about the run-out.