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One for the Red Team 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T. Bubb & J Meir, 6/1/2002
New Route: Yes
Season: Extended Alpine season
Page Views: 2,698
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Another look at the direct start options with a cl...

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As you approach Zowie from the south, you will see the chimney on the West side of the South face, this is the standard route. On the East side of the South Face there is a "flatiron" which is the route described by Bell/MacDonald comments in the South Face description.

Just left (West) of this variation, there is an large, overhanging, left-facing dihedral. The two-star rating accounts for the moss and lichen. If it were cleaned it could become a classic pitch.

This dihedral once started with some moss and lichen on slopers, but becomes much more secure after the first 15'. There is not much lichen or moss left according to recent accounts, the rock is really quite good and the moves are really fun.

Climb the wall on the right to move up and into the crack. This is a tad insecure for 15' until you step left and start stemming and jamming your way up the dihedral and through some overhangs and grooves until you are 100+ feet up and at the end of the dihedral. There are good feet out on the left for all overhangs, so the grade remains mellow.

At the end of the dihedral, step out left toward the arete for a move or two, but be careful to avoid the 1000+ pound death block on a ledge near the arete. Climb up a featured face from there, getting protection as necessary (but not necessarily as desired) and go to a large ledge with gear for a belay.

Continue to the summit on the South Face route.


A full set of cams to a #4 Camalot + a set of stoppers.

Photos of One for the Red Team Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the direct start pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on the direct start pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason entering the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Jason entering the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The small flatiron to the lower right of the South...
BETA PHOTO: The small flatiron to the lower right of the South...

Comments on One for the Red Team Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2006

Dougald MacDonald wrote:
"Kate Bartlett and I climbed a fine variation to the initial pitches on the South Face, in 1996 I think. It climbs the Flatiron-like face to the right of the obvious left-facing corner on the right side of the south face. (Rossiter has it going up the corner -- this isn't what we climbed, though it looks OK.) What we climbed was a pitch and a half of fun, somewhat run-out 5.8 face climbing -- no scarier than the offwidth at the top of the route. Start at the bottom and climb where the holds lead you, then join the regular route."

This is that 'obvious, left-facing corner' to the left of what Dougald and Kate did.
By BoulderCharles
Jun 5, 2016

Get on this route! If you do this start and the finger crack finish, you will have just as much fun as anyone on the Petit Grepon.

I climbed it in June 2016, and it was clean. The climbing is really interesting, it stays 5.8 for the whole way (no big ledges to break up the fun), and the pro is good in the dihedral.

I broke this into two pitches (up to a big ledge after you exit the dihedral). I then linked the remaining climbing with the first 5.6 pitch above the big ledge. It just barely works with a 70m (and maybe a few feet of simul-climbing). Venture left from the belay to avoid heinous rope drag.

The R rating is likely for the stretch of 5.5 climbing after the dihedral. If you can do the dihedral, you won't worry about the run-out.

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