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The Black Jack Boulder
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Black Jack Crack T 
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One Eyed Jack T,TR 
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One Eyed Jack 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Boulder, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 9/10/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 524
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 10, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: One Eyed Jack... This was a biproduct of cleaning ...

Description 

Highball boulder problem? Scary short trad climb? Fun top rope? its up to you.

This line climbs just right of a boulder problem called Rain Man which comes out of a damp cave facing the Umbrella Boulder. While the crux is a little awkward and not too memorable the top 2/3 of it is really fun and serves as a convenient if a little nerve racking moderate finish to it's lowball boulder problem neighbor.

Start by cruxing out up a shallow corner/ramp feature on sharp rock this section is a bit height dependent as you are moving toward a jug up and left. The sooner you can reach it the easier the route will feel. After you get the jug climb up the face to good holds and a small stance. after a nice short break here climb up and slightly left to a good spot to mantel on to the top of the boulder. With a rope the top out isn't too bad at all but with a spotter and a pad way down there it could get your heart racing a bit.

Location 

Just right and above the cave boulder problem Rain Man V4/5 facing the Umbrella Boulder.

Protection 

Well it all depends on your style.
On Gear it doesnt take much maybe a cam or two. If you boulder it I'd say a few pads for the bottom and a steady nerve for the top out where falling isn't really an option.
TR it off good gear and trees on top of the boulder.


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