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One Dragon Area

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Old Dragon Buttress 
Watchtower, The 

One Dragon Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 27.04145, 99.691 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 271
Administrators: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Nov 11, 2016
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Description 

This contains Old Dragon Buttress and the Watchtower, with potential for others with some perseverance. I heard this described as "Turtle Dragon Mountain" by a local farmer. An excellent hike by itself if you're feeling antsy on a rest day and want to get some sweet views and maybe encounter some more secluded wildlife.

Getting There 

Quite the involved and lengthy approach, though not particularly strenuous once you figure it out.

Direct: Across the river from Liming town is a hillside with power-lines running directly up it. Cross the river wherever, or if you don't want to ford it you can walk south out of town and take the left fork that curves back around and drop down on the far side of the river. Once on the far side, hike directly up the hillside. You will get covered in seed pods! This is a total nuisance as they're hard to get out and can grind their way into skin. From the last pole on the ridge before it crosses over the gully, cut up and left through the flattened fields until you join an obvious trail. Stay out of the inviting grassy gully!

Indirect: Walk north out of town, past the entrance arch, and turn right into the first parking lot. Make for the river from here and you should find a makeshift bridge. Cross this and scramble up the hill on the other side, over a low stone fence into a farmer's field. Walk straight across this to the other side and turn left towards the back of the house. Walk through the tall grass, past a beehive (wooden log on concrete platform) to the corn field highest on the hillside. Walk around this on the right and follow a rut/trail that winds its way up the hillside. When you join an obvious trail on a flat portion of the hillside with stone foundations, turn left and walk to the ridge, then join the obvious trail going back up and right. This will eventually come close to the power-lines and flattened fields where the direct approach joins. You will have to cross the highest of these fields in order to get back onto main trail which continues upward. From here, just follow the most obvious path towards the crags. At one point, after crossing a small stream, the road will fork. Straight/right goes towards a farmer's house on the opposite ridge. Turn left, cross the stream again, and continue upwards. The trail will come to a rocky trench at the saddle of the ridge. Old Dragon Buttress is the crag to the right, another minute or two along the ridge. The Watchtower is a little ways further past this crag...

Climbing Season



Weather station 54.2 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For One Dragon Area
Rock Climbing Photo: P1

Frees Thou 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Asia : China : ... : Old Dragon Buttress
Start up wide crack using lots of face features. Shrinks to good hands then fingers. You can stem out whenever. Beware of looseness in the left crack and a big chunk in the middle, which you can climb around using face holds on the right. More hands to awkward mantel and tiny gear (if any). Continue up easier rock with slight run-out. Step left to anchor.Please comment on this route if you do the second pitch and I will update the description accordingly. It looks like some fun chimneying!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of One Dragon Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Opposite side of the saddle, on the left, possibly...
Opposite side of the saddle, on the left, possibly...
Rock Climbing Photo: From atop 1000 Turtle Mtn
From atop 1000 Turtle Mtn
Rock Climbing Photo: Between Old Dragon and the Watchtower, not much wo...
Between Old Dragon and the Watchtower, not much wo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tower left of the saddle, no established routes
Tower left of the saddle, no established routes

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