Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dihedral Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracking Up T 
Odd Man Out S 
One Crack Mind T,TR 

One Crack Mind 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 92'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: Alex Weber on Jun 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Oh my god I love this climb.
Start left of the tree (or right of the tree if you're brave). Set some gear in the two parallel cracks when you can find it.
Reach a ledge, and traverse right to the money crack.
Head up the crack using some awesome hand and fist jams. Continue in this fashion, plugging #3s, a #4 and a #5 Until you get to thinner cracks. Here you can use a combination of jams and face climbing to reach the top anchors.
Don't leave Golden without doing this route!

Location 

Right of Crackin Up, by the pine tree.

Protection 

Standard rack, doubles in the medium and large sizes. Maybe triples.
Anchors at top.


Comments on One Crack Mind Add Comment
Show which comments
By D Cronmiller
Jul 17, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ripped a huge flake off this today. Feels more like 10b-ish. No need for a 5, could do without the 4 as well.