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One Bullet to Many 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Apr 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Start of One Bullet Too Many

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Description 

A great route that follows a very enjoyable flake up a relatively steep wall. A stick clip would not be a bad idea for the first bolt because a fall would land you in talus. The crux is just getting to that first bolt.

Location 

Starts in the middle of the wall just to the right of Jens and Gobi. Your belayer will basically be standing in the trees.

Protection 

Bolts to a 3 bolt anchor


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By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 24, 2014

The start really is hard on this one, almost unnecessarily so. +1 Stick clip even if you are comfortable at the grade. Terrible feet. The rest of the route is golden laybacking.

My friend pulled off a BIG block from the top section of this climb today, right around the anchor-clipping stance (don't worry, wasn't the flake), so be aware of loose rock. We got lucky, but it was a scare.

The upper flake almost imperceptibly flexes. It's not a lot, but it's there. Tread lightly.
By Evan Schock
From: Bozeman, MT
May 3, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

you can either statically and very strongly climb up the crack to the left, or get in a frog stance and boulder/throw way hard up and right and slap the slopey ledge and scurry up the flake to clip the 2nd bolt. this flake is DELICATE, i felt vibrations as i walked on it this year.

sitck clip 1st

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