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One Armed Giant 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982
Season: morning sun
Page Views: 1,053
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Feb 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Me getting around the crux constriction.


A fantastic exercise in flare and effort. The pro is minimal to scant to get into the initial maw. Once established in the chimney, there is very good pro in the back. There is an immediate exposure factor for the opening moves as this route sits on top of an existing deep chimney. If you fall in the first 10 feet, you go 25ft to some jagged blocks. Cool!

More info here:


This route lies just right of Quasar and almost shares the start. See the overview pic for Tiger Rocks.
Descend to climbers right along the summit slabs to an easy scramble down to the base.


A few sm/med wired nuts
1 each from 1.5" to 3"
1 3.5" cam
2 4" cams
1 6" cam
1 8" to 9" something

Med cams (1.5" to 3") for the anchor. If toproping, bring a short extendo runner.

Photos of One Armed Giant Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One Armed Giant. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: One Armed Giant. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Will getting set up in the opening flare.
Will getting set up in the opening flare.
Rock Climbing Photo: innovative claustrophobia test position
innovative claustrophobia test position
Rock Climbing Photo: Me doing some fancy rope tricks to get going.
Me doing some fancy rope tricks to get going.
Rock Climbing Photo: Will established in the chimney
BETA PHOTO: Will established in the chimney

Comments on One Armed Giant Add Comment
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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 2, 2010

Turned out to be a lot less awkward than I expected. The roof/constriction takes really good handjams so you can pretty much haul yourself up with your arms, and a hueco in just the right spot helps you get situated. Not too much chimney technique required. Once you're in it, it's a lengthy wiggle to the top, but it gets easier as you go.

Did this one on toprope. The move to the first handjam (and first gear placement) would be way committing on lead.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bishop
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Burly, but very good. I was happy with doubles from .75 to 2 and singles of 3, 4, 5 and 6. Getting onto the hueco was the technical crux, having the juice to get out of the overhanging part the physical. To the first good piece is intimidating but pretty easy. Oh, one last thing, I went left side in, not sure if that was the best way to go, but it worked.

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