|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982|
|Submitted By:||Russ Walling on Feb 10, 2008|
|Comments on One Armed Giant||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bryan G
Mar 2, 2010
Turned out to be a lot less awkward than I expected. The roof/constriction takes really good handjams so you can pretty much haul yourself up with your arms, and a hueco in just the right spot helps you get situated. Not too much chimney technique required. Once you're in it, it's a lengthy wiggle to the top, but it gets easier as you go.
Did this one on toprope. The move to the first handjam (and first gear placement) would be way committing on lead.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bishop
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|Burly, but very good. I was happy with doubles from .75 to 2 and singles of 3, 4, 5 and 6. Getting onto the hueco was the technical crux, having the juice to get out of the overhanging part the physical. To the first good piece is intimidating but pretty easy. Oh, one last thing, I went left side in, not sure if that was the best way to go, but it worked.|