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One-Armed Bandit 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 490', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry Hamilton, Tom Kaufman. March 1976
Page Views: 1,806
Submitted By: Matt Kuehl on Jan 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: P3: stay to the right at the large crack, I opted ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An enjoyable route that is a little more involved than Olive Oil. Expect ocassionaly poor protection and maybe some fragile rock.

Pitch 1 - 70' 5.7 Climb a left-facing corner to a bushy ledge, traverse right along the ledge and belay.

Pitch 2 - 100' 5.7 Climb onto the top of the pillar, zig zagging up ramp until it is possible to trend up and right across the face and belay above a big corner.

Pitch 3 - 80' 5.7 Climb the crack above to a belay in the base of a loose chimney. (bring wide gear or belay off slung block)

Pitch 4 - 140' 5.7 Continue up the chimney, and when it opens up climb the right facing corner above and the face to its right to reach a belay.

Pitch 5 - 110' 5.7 Climb the right facing corner above to a large ledge. Scramble up and right finishing at the top of Olive Oil.

Location 

100 yards up the gully from Olive Oil is a brown left facing corner. Just to the left is a short steep right-facing corner formed by the right side of a small buttress/pillar. The route starts 50 yards further up the gully from this feature and is in the corner formed by the left side the pillar.

Protection 

Single rack to to 3", optional 7"


Photos of One-Armed Bandit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott360 Belaying P1, he is so lazy! He did this t...
Scott360 Belaying P1, he is so lazy! He did this t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the start, climb up toward tree at top lef...
BETA PHOTO: This is the start, climb up toward tree at top lef...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is not the start, go past it about 50 feet......
BETA PHOTO: This is not the start, go past it about 50 feet......
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing at the base of One Armed Bandit, looking ...
BETA PHOTO: Standing at the base of One Armed Bandit, looking ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second belay on one armed bandit. Nice to have the...
Second belay on one armed bandit. Nice to have the...

Comments on One-Armed Bandit Add Comment
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By Billcoe
Mar 31, 2012

Did this with my son and his buddy last week. Singles to 2" Camalot size and single nuts including single small wireds -DMM brass Wired offset sizes would have been perfect. Touching any rock inside of the chimney seemed to make it fall down onto the belayer in large chunks. I knocked more rocks on my partners out of this chimney than I have in my last 30 years of climbing total. The second dropped even more than that, almost took out the lad who was ducking under protection and the rocks did chop my rope where a single wayward loop was in the wrong place.... my son said:-( Supertopo listed 5-7" cams as optional), and if you don't have that it's a 30' ledge fall. I suspect that could have been somewhat avoided with some tiny wireds which I'd take next time.....wish that I'd had them....Otherwise...... I liked the route.

BTW, the "5.6" chimney was deemed tough by all of us.
By Marilyn Geninatti
Apr 21, 2012

Awesome route, clean rock, interesting pithes, varied.
A little hard to know where to go at times with many options.
Agree with first move off deck of last pitch.
we liked as well if not better than Olive Oil
mg
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 18, 2012

Not as loose or runout as SuperTopo suggests. Definitely not as good as Olive Oil, but a worthwhile moderate route, especially in winter, with good sun exposure, a fast approach and descent, and great belay ledges. Leave the #6 at home. This one climbs pretty easy for 5.7.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 6, 2013

Short, well-protected 5.7 cruxes at the start of the first pitch, and near the end of the last pitch. Otherwise, cruiser terrain with intermittent protection, occasionally on the fragile side. We took a #4 and #5 Camalot and placed them a couple of times; nice, but definitely optional.
By Jer Alz
From: Las Vegas
Dec 10, 2016

Updated this info with a little more beta and accuracy (rope lengths).
This climb is worth doing once, definitely not better then olive oil. There is a lot of 5.6 or less climbing for a lot of it. Not sure every pitch is even 5.7.. there is probably 100-150ft worth of total 5.7 climbing on the entire thing, everything else is easier...
If you want to be in sun, go first light, we started the climb at 10ish in December and were chasing the sun (never made it into it).
The approach just past Olive oil is kind of a pain, at the big boulder go left and through some bush then right to get to the start.
See my picture for the start... you could start sooner at the 2 corner systems facing each other if you want a very tough steep start.
Going left onto the face at P3 will yield some fragile rock though good holds.
Our rack consisted of singles to #3, we didn't need anything bigger... The chimney seemed to fragile to really protect but the climbing was easy enough.


Pitch 1 - 55' 5.7 Climb a left-facing corner to the 2nd bushy ledge, use the bush to bring your 2nd up. After that traverse right along the ledge past the tree and setup your P2 belay.

Pitch 2 - 140' 5.7 Climb onto the top of the pillar, zig zagging up ramp until it is possible to trend up and right across the face and belay above a big corner. This belay is actually the 2nd big ledge and about 140ft up.

Pitch 3 - 80' 5.7 Climb the crack above, stay right, see my picture. Going left and on the face leads to very fragile rock. Belay in the base of a loose chimney. (bring wide gear or belay off slung block) I didn't see a block I felt safe belaying off, I used BD C4 #3, #1 and a C3 0 (X4 .2 would work) in the crack to the right inside chimney... Rock is OK.

Pitch 4 - 140' 5.7 Continue up the chimney (Not much Pro options) and when it opens up climb the right facing corner above and the face to its right to reach a belay.

Pitch 5 - 130' 5.7 Climb the right facing corner above to a large ledge. Scramble up and right finishing at the top of Olive Oil.

Hope this helps!
By Scott360
From: Las Vegas
Dec 11, 2016

Thanks, Jeremy, for the updated route beta and pitch lengths. My two cents worth:

- Overall impression of the climb: meh. Great belay ledges. Would I climb it again? No. Definitely not as good as Olive Oil (or many other climbs of this grade in Red Rock);

- P4 chimney: we didn’t think it was more than 5.6. No, it doesn’t protect (I led it and didn’t place any pro till about 40 feet up), but the climbing is easy and the rock is good enough;

- First 8-10 feet of P2 (see Jer Altz’s photo) was the best climbing on the whole route—cool, fun layback;

- P3 shed a lot of rock, though Jeremy climbed this left of the right-leaning crack (further out on the face). Kudos to him for going for the sportier line, but after three big chunks broke off—and almost taking a nasty fall—it was interesting;

- Crux section on P5 was fun; found good (albeit concealed) hands in the flake;

- Never felt the need for gear bigger than a #3 C4. HBs came in handy, as did extra 60cm slings for chicken heads;

- On the approach, stow your pack and rack up in line with the walk-off canyon (north side of Rose Tower), before you start hiking up to the base of the climb. You don’t want to circle back and up to the base of the climb to retrieve your pack.