One Armed Bandit
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This is the large corner just to the right of Life During Wartime
. The thin section near the beginning is easier than it looks from the ground thanks to perfect finger locks and secure liebacking. Overall this is a very easy climb for the grade. I found it easier than Life During Wartime (10a). However the gear is somewhat tricky to place due to the irregular crack and the rock quality is suspect in a couple areas.
Pro to 4". Large stoppers are very useful. 2 bolt anchor/lower
From: Truckee, California
Oct 5, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gear and rock are not the greatest on this thing, but the movement is fun. Not sure why this route hasn't seen the retro bolt treatment that so mnay other cracks in ORG have.