REI Community
Middle Section
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beaver Cleaver T 
C. W. Hicks Direct T 
Camptown Races (variation) T 
Candyland T 
Cat's Pajamas T 
Chameleon T 
Cinnamon Girl T 
Classic, The T 
Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 
Coatimundi Whiteout T 
Crack Lover's Variation T 
Crisco Way T 
Deep Yogurt  T 
Good Action S 
Good, Bad, and Ugly (GBU), The T 
Green Savior T 
Gunsmoke T 
Hassayampa T 
Help Me Mr. Wizard T 
High Exposure Exit T,S 
Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 
Kingpin T 
Magnolia Thunderpussy T 
Mindbender T 
Once Upon a Time T 
Reunion T 
Said and Done T 
Slammer Jam, The T 
Sweet Acidophilus T 
Tom Thumb T 
Triple Direct T 
Twin Cracks T 
Waterstreak Delight T,S 
Witblitz T 

Once Upon a Time 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Crux ? 1980's Colorado team, Balance of Route Jim Waugh with Frank Valendo and Chris Raypole
Season: seasonal closures
Page Views: 1,965
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Cooper Varney leading pitch 4 (5.11-) of Once Upon...

Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>


p1, 5.9 crack and flake system leads to main Sorcerer ledge.
p2, An unknown party had made the hard moves up the crack, shallow corner and bailed off once bolts were required. Hard climbing up mostly thin but solid pro leads to a sling belay.
p3, meandering face climbing leads past 5 bolts to a crux "inches" short of the thin ledge leading right to the shared belay with Kingpin. This 5.10 climbing is fully 20' out from last bolt but is an all clean fall if you blow it.
p4, links a feature crack/groove (5.11-) to the crux fist move at the great roof on Coatimundi.
p5, leads up to summit.


Right of Sorcerer corner, left of Kingpin corner are the 2nd and 3rd pitches.


brass nuts and standard GM rack- travel light on p3 lead!!!!

Comments on Once Upon a Time Add Comment
Show which comments
By KyleKent
Dec 22, 2010

The face pitch is runout at the top, but on easier ground (5.7-5.8). The crux move comes early in the pitch, and pulls a bulge with a bolt right at you. Not much fear factor on this pitch.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About