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On Your Celtic Way 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Grant Walker, Wes Schaffer
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: C. Williams on Jun 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Clip up this crimptastic short section of good roc...

Description 

A fantastic short climb. Start in a small alcove and pull bouldery moves to a short face. Crimp to the anchors on fantastic stone. Very well protected.

Location 

First climb along the trail, nice cleared belay spot.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 bolt rap anchor


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By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 10, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Went out climbing with the 1st ascent party on a few routes at Weekender today and it is agreed that the holds have become smaller on this and others, causing the grades to be stiffer than they are in the guidebook and on MP. Granted the rock here exfoliates less than nearby areas, but over time has become less friable and cleaner. Approximate grade of this line is .11d or .11+ and solid at it.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
May 11, 2016

11d seems a bit soft... Where are the holds smaller?
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 11, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The comment made was from the first ascentionist, commenting on the original grade and how it has changed over the years.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
May 11, 2016

I was hoping for some specifics on where the holds have changed, as it would be interesting info for the people who enjoy the route. Having climbed the route with a member of the FA party I thought you might be able to relay that info. The bottom does crumble and I agree that the climbing to the second bolt has cleaned up. I realize I am a relative newcomer to this route. that being said I haven't noticed any significant hold breaks through the crux at the top in the last 6ish years.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 11, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Hello Chris, the comment on this route was applicable to some of the crux holds getting smaller since it was bolted...but not meaning that the route has gotten worse or anything, just that it has cleaned up a nicely, given the rock in the area. Basically, the grade became solidified and the route climbs nicely as a result of it, which, as you know at some of the other areas where exfoliation happens more frequently, the hold breaks can definitely alter the quality of the route. In the case of Thief, as an example, entire sequences have changed because of breakage, which is unfortunate, as it used to climb better than it does now...still a good line though. Anyway, didn't mean to come across as being callous, I just don't really want the commentary to come to this wall, like with Dew, Wookie etc., where out of nowhere sparks a debate. Anyway, thanks for putting in the wrench work and replacing anchors and bolts at various places. I have a few on my list to replace this summer after getting in touch with the FA parties for retro-ing as well. Cheers!
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jun 8, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Route Update:

As of 6/8/2016, almost a month since my last visit, the jugs to the right of the first bolt have broken, still leaving good holds, with one more that is loose(marked with an X). Upon descending to run another lap, I pulled a collection of holds of the large tufa-bucket.

Since my last visit, someone else exfoliated a large seemingly solid flake at the 3rd bolt. The grade became more reinforced with these two large breaks, but not by much. Unfortunately, the 3rd bolt area became less smooth flowing, making a long reach necessary, unless tic-tacing between smaller holds is fun for anyone.

Bottom line, the moves by the lower bolt are more direct and fun, the moves at the 3rd are less fluid...
Rock Climbing Photo: 10+ pounds of exfoliation.
10+ pounds of exfoliation.


Rock Climbing Photo: Gus with the hatchet that I pulled off.
Gus with the hatchet that I pulled off.


Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt 3 flake, or lack thereof.
Bolt 3 flake, or lack thereof.


Rock Climbing Photo: Bolt one exfoliation.
Bolt one exfoliation.

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