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Amon Rûdh
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On the Virg T 

On the Virg 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Aaron Black, Colin Dionne, Victor Ting, Kris Wild
Page Views: 561
Submitted By: Jason Addy on Feb 7, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Access to On the Virg from Eldred Valley,

Logging Roads - Restricted Access MORE INFO >>>


Amazing crack climbing in a very secluded spot. Leads to some slab climbing with sparse bolts (5.10-). Route finding and easier sections near the top.


Take the Eldred Valley Mainline to where is crosses D-Branch River (draining Mount Alfred glacier). From here follow flagging (seen across the river on the right side of the road) up to the route through stunning old growth forest.

Old access... (nightmare)
Follow D-branch to a major fork about a mile up from the mainline. Take the left fork, which leads across the bridge to the north side of the D-branch valley, continue up a long water-barred grade until a major gully stops further vehicular access. From your truck begin hiking up the road, after about ½ mile the road forks back to the west. Follow this deactivated spur to its terminus close to the east-end of Amon Rudh. Head up and left through the slash into the old growth forest, continue up and left until it is possible to traverse across to some large boulders in the forest, descend into the gully below the wall. A faint trail leads from the top of the major waterfall through the forest to the start of on the Virg. Approach takes about three hours from the truck.


Standard rack to 3", extra slings and rings for rappel, 2 x 60m ropes.

Photos of On the Virg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo topo from afar.
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo from afar.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo up to top of Pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: Photo up to top of Pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Original topo.
BETA PHOTO: Original topo.

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Jun 28, 2016

On the virg is classic!!!!!!!!! Must do for those looking for adventure. Amon is a truly incredible wall
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Jul 20, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beautiful route in a wild location. We needed a 4x4 to get to the trailhead. The approach took just under two hours to a bivy at the base of Amon Rudh. The climbing was fun and engaging with incredible views of the Eldred. It took about 9 hours camp-to-camp.

All anchors and bolts are in good shape. We replaced the tat on top with some new cord.

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