On the Rocks Var
WI3 M6+ R
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
|Original: ||WI3 M6+ R [details]|
|FA: ||B. Gillett & C. Greedy, 2001|
|Season: ||late fall, winter|
|Page Views: ||419|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Dec 21, 2003|
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This is a fun little mixed climb up the center of this little cliff. It is the right of the 2 bolted mixed starts on the slightly overhanging rock where the trail typically comes up to the cliff.
There is often a fragile pillar touching down a few feet left of the start. From below, this start looks quite improbable to punters (like me). There is a small angling ledge below the 1st bolt. If you are 5'11" or there more than average snow, you may be able to start directly here. Otherwise, move in from the R, match on the ledge. If there is ice to the L, fire L, gain a fair edge at the top of the T-crack. Now, the crux, crunch those abds and get that R foot up. (Note: soreness may last a few days) Piece together a few mixed moves to the roof. Get a large wire or cam (hopefully) in short crack. Move R into a ice corner, get your feet on a ledge, inch L, clip the beefy bolt. Move up on lower angled, thin ice to the tree at 90 ft. Walk off or rap. Thanks, Bernard.
Alpine crampons not recommended. TR recommended for flightless birds who cluck (like me).
2 QD for 2 bolts, possibly a small wire, a few stubbies. Courage.
From the top of the cliff, slings off a medium-sized tree with rings & a 60m rope