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On The Loose T 
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On The Loose 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Henry Barber and Dave Cilley, 4/77
Page Views: 7,132
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Hayden nearing the upper third of On The Loose


A Henry Barber classic!

During the last part of the 70s, "Hot" Henry Barber lunged at practically every hard crack route in New England and staked claim to many (if not all) of their first ascents. On The Loose is one of the many timeless testpieces of an era where style and ethics were of the utmost importance.

Begin the route atop some large boulders at the far right end of the cliff. Step up through some awkward wide cracks, and crane your neck back to see what is looming above--the steepest crack on the cliff with, undoubtedly, the most secure jams, as well.

Put your forearms on stun, and jam the hell out of this thick monster of a crack. A couple of rests can be had along the way; however, they may not feel like they are working by the time you reach the anchors.


At the far right end of the cliff is the off-width crack of Eternity. To the left is a prominent hand crack system running up the wall. This is On The Loose.


A wide selection of small to large gear, with double in the green to blue Camalot sizes. An additional blue isn't all that bad of an idea either.

Photos of On The Loose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Simon starting the crack
Simon starting the crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Groveling up On the Loose
BETA PHOTO: Groveling up On the Loose
Rock Climbing Photo: On the loose
On the loose
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of the route "On the Loose"
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the route "On the Loose"

Comments on On The Loose Add Comment
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By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 31, 2010

Heaven in a Hand Crack.
By analogical
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. Probably 10a at Yosemite or the New, but Dacks 9+.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This thing is evil - keep it away from your children or it might eat them!

Seriously though this line is a full body workout that will make your stomach churn by the time you top out. Beware - if it has been baking in the sun the crack will feel smooth and greasy - good times!
By R Dubs
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

High, high quality hands, thin hands with a couple of buckets thrown in. It might not be a splitter, and there might be a few good holds but I can assure you that this thing is all about the jams. Climbed all over North and South America, and this beauty still stands out in my mind and I make sure to pay it a visit or three every time I make it back to the Web. Mega-classic for sure. I'd say Dacks 9+ as well.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2014

this climb is an amazing, mystical, buttery, hand journey, with great pro in a variety of sizes. I might have placed a single #3, you don't need 3 (or even 2, or even 1...) or them.
By City Dweller
From: New York, NY
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

So Good.

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