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On Deck 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Marcus Floyd
Season: spring and fall
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Marcus Floyd on Sep 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: "On Deck" aka Next to Bat

Description 

"On Deck" is a term that refers to a person being up next to bat. In this case, it referred to the next person in line to climb the Battress. This line ends at a two bolt anchor system, available as a rap station or as a way to access the TR anchors for the Battress. Who's next in line for the Battress? "Squeaker' is the new route bolted between the Battress and On Deck. Warm up on these steep slab lines then tackle your trad ascent of the Battress.
The lower crux of 'On Deck' is at the obvious transition into the dihedral formation then the upper crux is just a balance move above the forth bolt. This line has new permadraws and rap anchor chains. The forth bolt was moved right a few feet to force climbers to stay right.

Location 

This route starts at the second line of bolts to the right of the Battress Crack. Climb up 10 to 15 feet then traverse left a few steps and continue up into the left facing dihedral structure. Pull up onto the upper face by either moving straight up or by angling up and left. You make the choice. Original ascent line continues straight above the last bolt.

Protection 

Permadraws provided. Take a rappel device to reduce wear on rap anchors. The forth bolt on this line was moved slightly right during the upgrade.


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By Marcus Floyd
Administrator
From: columbia, mo
Nov 6, 2016

ON DECK
This line was the first sport route bolted in the Batress Wall area, so its name "On Deck" reflected a play on words, meaning next to bat or in this case the first route bolted right of the Batress Crack. The Saint Louis Cardinals were heading towards the world series and baseball was no the mind. While some climbers can't wait to plug in traditional gear into a perfect crack, many sport climbers do not have the trad equipment. On Deck was bolted as an easier sport line that would provide access to the Batress rap anchors, allowing the crack to be top roped by the sporty weekend warriors. Since the bolting of On Deck, the route Squeaker was bolted, becoming the first sport line to the right of Batress.

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