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South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Robot City S 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 

On Beyond Zebra 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Peter Gram (December 1989)
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Bolting on lead during the FA in December 1989. Ph...

Description 

Climb up the face right of Box Overhang Right but stay on the face & arete and don't get tempted by the nice crack to the right. Mostly just top-roped or avoided. I haven't seen it led.

Location 

On the face right of "Box Overhang Right". Shown as route number 27 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection 

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor sans chains.


Photos of On Beyond Zebra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Peter on the FA, bolting on lead. ...
Another view of Peter on the FA, bolting on lead. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Gram on an early ascent of the route in Dece...
Peter Gram on an early ascent of the route in Dece...

Comments on On Beyond Zebra Add Comment
Show which comments
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jun 25, 2008

Bolted on lead, which was very interesting to watch/photograph.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 27, 2008

A .12b bolted on lead! That's amazing. Please, share the pictures! Is there a good stance to put a bolt in before the crux?
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jul 17, 2008

I see Jason loaded up my slides. Thanks, Jason.
Pretty bloody bad quality images. Look like they were taken underwater.
BTW: Many WR routes were done on lead.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jun 2, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

"On Beyond Zebra" is 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (bolt count in the books is off). No chains, but you can easily clean the anchor from the top while hiking out.

It's given an "R" for pro in some books, but that's obsolete info, as the 2nd bolt was added after the FA (and the FAist was involved in the process; and it was apparently rebolted as well). Now it is just minor runout on 5.8-ish terrain, a non-issue for anyone even considering 5.12 at White Rock.

It's rated 12c in "Jemez Rock"- I'll suggest the distinction between 12b and 12c might depend on how directly you stick to the bolt line at the crux (as I haven't sent any other 12c's at White Rock), and my best sequence involved using the arete. (I was happy to see the photos posted of the FA showing the arete to the left at the crux is "on", trying to go direct without the arete is really thin and quite hard.)

Samet's description is hilarious, describing the route as "silly", "premeditated", "contrived" and "stupid" (as if this is in contrast to most rock climbing?), but in any case, it's hardly a classic.

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